OPEL MANTA B BUYING TIPS OPEL MANTA A
BODYWORK Rust can get the Opel Manta B anywhere, and often does, despite being improved over the original Manta A. Key grot spots are the nose cone above the headlights, inner and outer sills, front valance, jacking points, rear wheelarches and sunroof surrounds. And don’t forget to check under the carpets!
DRIVETRAIN A whining gearbox or back axle is probably in need of replacement or a re-build because they are generally as tough as old boots. Five-speed Getrag ‘boxes in the B2 1.8 and GT/E are also exceedingly long-lived, so if there are any issues in that department it’s likely to be damaged. Haggle accordingly or walk away.
ENGINES The Manta B had much the same engine line-up as the A, aside from a larger 2.0, which was a bored-out version of the old 1.9. The later 1.8 used in post-1982 B2s needs regular cambelts, too, but this is a simple job. All 2.0-litre fuel-injected GT/E engines are cam-in-head units and tough and long-lived, if not exactly pleasing on the ear.
INTERIOR AND TRIM Parts availability for the interior trim isn’t what you’d call good, with lots of once-mundane items long-since added to the ‘no longer available’ list. So bear that in mind if you’re looking to buy a Manta with shabby seats or missing pieces of plastic because sourcing interior bits can be quite troublesome.
BODYWORK The Manta A had an Italianate approach to corrosion, which would explain why so few remain today. That’s a shame, because it’s such a pretty car. You’re going to have to check all structural areas, especially the inner sills, jacking points, and front and rear suspension mounts. And that’s before you start looking at all of the cosmetic stuff.
DRIVETRAIN All UK Manta As received the same four-speed gearbox, which was known for its longevity because it was so unstressed, having a maximum of 90bhp to deal with. Despite that, rear axles and propshafts can get noisy – the latter will probably need a re-build, whereas the former usually just needs re-bushing.
ENGINES Engines of all types are tough and long-lived as long as they get decent fuel and fresh oil and filters on a regular basis. The cam-in-head 1.6 and 1.9 can run for well over 100,000 miles without re-builds (the UK didn’t get the OHV 1.2). Look closely for signs of cylinder head gasket failure, and make sure that it’s been put back together properly.
INTERIOR AND TRIM Build quality is good, but general wear and tear over an extended period is an issue simply because of how scarce parts are these days. Lots inside is shared with other Opels and there’s a decent supply of parts from mainland Europe – just as long as you don’t mind paying a fairly handsome premium.