LOTUS ELAN
(1962-75)
LOOK FOR ANY CRACKS
Not having to worry about rotten panels is unusual for a British classic, but that glassfibre body still requires attention. Major crazing and cracks will need specialist skills to repair, so pay attention to the areas around locks and hinges, which are often first to go. Don’t ignore the paint; a respray needs doing properly to avoid problems re-appearing, and the cost can exceed £5k. Bodged restorations will strain your funds and patience, so steer clear. Poor door fit isn’t rare, so don’t worry too much, but check the operation of the vacuumoperated lamp pods as replacement vacuum units can be hard to source.
WHAT LURKS BENEATH
A thorough inspection of the chassis is vital. Accident damage could have left it twisted, and it suffers from cracks and corrosion, especially around engine and suspension mountings. There are also side members unique to the Plus 2 that are tricky and costly to repair. Don’t be surprised to find a replacement, either the Lotus design or the spaceframe type sold by Spyder, which works well but affects originality. Examine the rubber ‘Rotoflex’ driveshaft couplings for cracks/perishing; they last better than some observers have you believe – the alternative is solid drive shafts which work well.
DOES IT HANDLE PROPERLY?
Cracks around mountings aside, the suspension needs checking for worn bushes or bent wishbones, and expect to find aftermarket springs and dampers, as originals aren’t available. Wandering on the road or uneven tyre wear points to the geometry being amiss; investigate why, as it could be nothing or a chassis on its last legs. The all-round disc brakes are usually trouble-free, apart from sticking rear calipers, although a weak handbrake is common and more of a nuisance than anything. New alloy wheels aren’t available so reconditioning will be needed. Worn rear wheel bearings are a further issue.
MAKE SURE IT STAYS COOL
Twin Cam engines last well with careful maintenance, but a healthy cooling system is crucial to longevity. Incorrect coolant strength risks corrosion of the alloy cylinder head, with resultant silt and blockages, while bearing play or any leaks from the water pump put pressure on an already marginal setup. A recent overhaul and/or a new radiator are a good sign, and look for coolant flushes in the service history. A smoky exhaust or low oil pressure are bad news (40psi warm is fine), but while an engine rebuild isn’t especially cheap it’ll last for many years if it’s done properly. It’s also worth checking the unit all over for oil leaks – they often emanate from the cam cover – and for a rattling timing chain.