AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 BJ7/BJ8
(1962-67)
LOOK FOR RUINOUS ROT
Rot is the greatest enemy to the Big Healey’s complex structure. When buying it’s vital to have access to a pit or ramp with good lighting to inspect the chassis – a ladder frame with central cruciform. An inner steel body is welded to the chassis, and aluminium shrouds and outer steel panels are attached to that – with plenty of opportunities for rust to occur and be badly repaired. Also beware of electrolytic corrosion between the aluminium and steel panels. Rot in the main chassis rails is rare but not unknown. Check them for accident distortion and follow through to the A-posts and the bulkhead.
IS THE STEERING VAGUE?
All Healeys have a steering box which gets vague with age and needs frequent topping up with oil. A new uprated box from Denis Welch Motorsport costs about £1500 plus fitting, or the original can be rebuilt for around £500. It should be obvious if it is worn, feeling sloppy and with play, especially at centre. Wire wheels were fitted to most cars; check for broken spokes, poor balancing and rust, and for clonks between forward and reverse progress denoting worn splines. Front suspension needs frequent lubrication to avoid wear. Polyurethane bushes are a worthwhile upgrade.
CHECK THE TRIM OUT
The one major downgrade that came with the BJ7 was that the interior was now vinyl. Leather retrims aren’t uncommon though. The wooden dash can get damaged by rainwater easily if there are leaks around the windscreen, so check carefully. A new soft-top shouldn’t cost more than £500, whatever the model, but if you want a hardtop then you can expect to get little change out of £3k for a new reproduction. Heat insulation from the engine bay is marginal, so many owners don’t use the heater much at all – be sure therefore to test it out and make sure it is working efficiently enough for winter.
LOOK FOR ENGINE TLC
The big C-series engines are rugged, but they can soon wear out if poorly rebuilt or haphazardly maintained. Look for evidence of regular maintenance, with 50psi oil pressure at speed, and listen for bottom-end rumbling, knocking or a rattly top-end. Excessive oil breathing and blue smoke in the exhaust are signs of worn bores and rings. Look for water leaks and overheating caused by a silted-up engine and radiator – an electric fan only temporarily masks the issue and the only effective solution is a complete engine strip coupled with a radiator re-core. Even if the engine is in good health, check the specification is correct for the car it claims to be, as originality is highly valued in Big Healeys.