WHAT TO LOOK FOR
LISTEN FOR RUMBLES
The rear suspension comprises a live rear axle on leaf springs damped by telescopic dampers. Wheels were pressed steel. It’s a fairly conventional set-up but listen for rumbling that may signal a worn differential or wheel bearings. The front suspension is more complex with upper wishbones, lower arms and telescopic dampers passing through coil springs. The arms are mounted on to a cross-member that is integral with the body. A pin on which the two-part wishbone swivels is welded into the crossmember with a retaining nut on each end. Replacing a sheared-off pin is a major job.
ASSESS THE CABIN
Check the condition of the leather – a complete re-trim could run to thousands. Carpets were originally Hessian-backed and the headlining either beige or grey union cloth, though later Varitones had plastic ones. The dashboard of most ZAs and ZBs was finished in burr walnut after chassis number 6501. Before that (from around spring 1955) they had a ‘tin-top’ dash with an imitation fascia, the painted wood-effect finish. Instruments were by Jaeger with the distinctive octagonal speedo and no revcounter. Check whether the smaller gauges for fuel, temperature, oil pressure and amps are working. The Magnette hails from the era of positive earth electrics and temperature senders that work with the gauge are difficult to find.
CHECK THE BOOT FOR ROT
The thoroughly modern Magnette was the first MG to be designed with unitary construction rather than a body-on-chassis. As such, rust is a problem, notably the double-skinned rear wings, which trap moisture. To check the rear wings, open the boot and remove the cards either side to reveal the seam welds at the base of the inner skins. Rot also occurs around the rear road spring front mounting and is another difficult repair. This one can only be done by removing the doors and inner and outer sills. It gets even more expensive if the main chassis members need replacing, too.
LOOK OVER THE BODYWORK
A reinforcement extension panel forms the base of the front wheel arch and provides an attachment point for the tie bars. These play a mechanically crucial role and can rot, as can any part of the floor. Jacking points should be checked, too. A-pillars are usually not a major problem but the deep transmission tunnel should be checked because it’s a major structural component. Early cars had no quarter lights but most have and leaks can cause rusting inside the doors. Repairs here can run to hundreds of pounds with rubbers alone costing £50 each, so be forensic in your examination.
DOES IT JUMP OUT OF GEAR?
The layshaft runs in needle rollers, one set on the nose and a pair at the rear. Dirt can cause the hardened steel needles to stop revolving, causing severe wear, so listen for whining when driving. Weak selector springs or worn ball bearings can cause jumping out of gear and crashing from first to second suggests worn synchromesh. The hydraulic coilsprung clutch has a carbon release bearing rather than a ballrace type – listen for any grinding or rumbling noises with the clutch pedal depressed and the engine idling.