WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODY CHECKS
Corrosion can break out on the chassis in isolated areas without regular rustproofing; extensive rot is rare but do check the rear of the chassis and the wishbones. The glassfibre bodyshell has so far proved durable. The panels at the front are bolted on and those at the rear are glued together. As they’re not load-bearing they’re as little as 2mm thick – although many, such as the door casings, bumpers and bulkheads, are much thicker. There’s little chance of cracking or crazing, and you’re unlikely to encounter anything worth worrying about apart from stone chips on the nose.
WHEEL PROBLEMS
Elan series 1s were fitted with 15-inch alloys, but US cars got 16-inch wheels. Whichever size, the wheels featured seven spokes and were made by OZ. Made of soft alloy, those original wheels haven’t aged well and are now obsolete, which is why many Elans sport aftermarket replacements. The braking system is entirely conventional and doesn’t have any foibles, though some do feel that it isn’t quite up to the performance of the car, so upgrades are popular. Whatever is fitted, the rear discs can corrode if the car is stored outside.
CHECK THE ROOF
The folding roofs never sealed the cabin from the elements effectively so don’t expect any hood to be completely watertight – although Series 2 cars were better. Expect to pay £550 for a new roof and up to another £400 for a set of seals. Electrics can be temperamental and it’s not just down to poor earths – motors for the windows and headlights play up. Replacement parts are affordable, but some repairs are very time-consuming, and therefore potentially expensive. Check that things like the windows, central locking and pop-up headlights are functioning correctly.
DO THE GEARS SELECT OK?
There’s little chance of the strong five-speed manual transmission giving problems, even if the engine has been upgraded. Hard-driven cars may suffer from a slipping clutch, but you simply need to feel for slipping as you accelerate hard through the gears; also check that the clutch doesn’t reach its biting point towards the top of the pedal travel. Although the gearbox itself is tough, the gear linkage is not. The ball link on the end of the cable will eventually break away, leading to difficulty with selecting some of the gears. Fixing the broken linkage is relatively inexpensive and straightforward, though.
HOW’S THE ENGINE?
The 1588cc Isuzu 4XE1-MT engine is compact, light, powerful and durable. Normally-aspirated versions are very rare. It will keep going as long as it’s properly serviced – the secret is fresh fullysynthetic oil every 5000 miles. Many owners have upgraded their engine by having the ECU re-mapped to increase power to 175-210bhp or so. It’s more than a decade since the first conversions were offered and no ill effects have yet been detected– but stronger brakes are needed if the wick is turned up to 210bhp. The IHI turbo lasts as long as the engine if the oil is changed frequently.
IS THE STEERING OKAY?
Steering racks are weak, with many cars having already had a replacement. Don’t under-estimate the hassle involved in fitting a new rack. The Elan’s suspension is as tough as the rest of the car, although the dampers can leak
– a swift visual check will soon establish whether replacements are due or not. If one is leaking or worn out, both sides will need to be replaced. Of more concern is suspension that’s out of alignment – this is guaranteed to lead to wayward handling and uneven tyre wear. It may be because the car has been in a shunt, but more likely due to heavy kerbing.