Classic Car Weekly (UK)

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

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FINGER-LIGHT STEERING

Most E30s came with powerassis­ted steering, which should be light and precise. It’s generally durable but leaks can occur so check the gaiters and hoses and ensure that the fluid level is up to the mark. Vibrations at speed could be down to worn inner or outer track-rod ends; replacemen­ts are £20 apiece. Vagueness in the steering points to worn ball joints, which cost £50 each and take an hour to replace on each side. Significan­t play in the steering is likely to be down to a perished flex disc on the steering column next to the universal joint; this eventually wears but replacemen­ts are easy and cheap at about £10.

FIGHTING FIT

Driving a 3 Series should be a joy thanks to the suspension design, but wallowing in corners is usually because of worn front anti-roll bar drag links; new ones are £15 each and take an easy hour to replace. The two rear subframe mounting bushes can wear badly after 100k miles. The symptoms are clonks and bangs when accelerati­ng, braking or driving over bumps. New bushes are £20-35 each but a special tool is needed; a specialist charges around £100 to replace each bush for you. By this stage, the dampers will probably be worn, too; new ones are £40-120 each, depending on specificat­ion.

GIZMO GREMLINS

Failed window motors are common, as are corroded central locking connection­s – there’s a 21-pin connector in the A-pillar. Central locking control units can also rust; it’s accessed by removing the speaker in the driver’s footwell. The instrument­ation can also play up thanks to problems with its circuit board. Erratic tacho readings are down to poor earthing because of a dry joint; a magnifying glass helps identify the culprit and a soldering iron soon fixes it. Problems can also be caused by the rechargeab­le battery that powers the instrument­s failing; pre-1985 cars especially prone.

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