WHAT TO LOOK FOR
INSPECT THE CHASSIS
B-spec cars onwards have a different chassis to the pre-jaguar ownership models. Additional outriggers and a bracing bar between the A-pillars at the base of the windscreen were added to reduce chassis flex. The points to check are largely the same between the specs; the cross tubes at the front of the car and below the radiator are very susceptible to corrosion and sill beams are also prime targets for incipient rot.
CHECK FOR CRACKS
Glassfibre may not be susceptible to tin worm but it can’t escape the effects of age and weather. Even the youngest examples are touching 60 years old now so bodywork crazing and other deterioration aren’t uncommon. It’s also worth checking for low-quality repairs, raised lines and poor paint suggesting rushed jobs. If a car is looking particularly tired you can spend £5000-10,000 putting the entire body right but you’ll never have to do it again.
PORE OVER THE BRAKES
The all-disc brakes are efficient but the two-piston calipers that grip the rotors behind each wheel can seize, especially if the car sits for a long time. Stainless steel pistons won’t break the bank and seals are similarly affordable. A worn handbrake lever results in a loud chattering when driving. Brake line unions are threeway at the rear and five-way at the front and changing them from alloy to brass is recommended though it can involve re-piping the whole car.
SUSPECT SMOKE
Engine smoke on starting should clear when warm. Don’t worry if it doesn’t because valve stem seals weren’t fitted originally. If smoke persists this is a sign of worn piston rings, tired cylinder bores or, worse, both letting oil seep by and burn. Once the engine is warm, check for a good oil pressure reading of 40psi under standard load and 20psi at a steady idle. Cylinder heads can corrode on both the decks and from inside the fluid galleries. Specialist aluminium welding will almost certainly be needed to tidy up worn units. Exchange cylinder heads are available from specialists though prices vary.
TEST THE TRANSMISSION
The four-speed manual gearbox has synchromesh on the top higher ratios – listen out for chattering in first, which suggests a tired layshaft or, worse, a worn first main shaft gear. A re-build to solve either issue is likely to set you back at least £1k. The optional Borg-warner automatic is generally robust but reluctance or hesitancy to shift without backing off the throttle means that you’re looking at an expensive re-build – budget at least £2k.
SORT OUT THE SPRINGS
The original rear suspension set up is semi-elliptical leaf springs and lever-arm dampers. The latter can cost around £200 for exchange units so keep a look-out for leaks. The front suspension comprises upper and lower wishbones with stub axles bolted through a vertical link, the lower trunnions on which can be replaced for £40 or so. An exchange item will set you back about £1600 if the link itself is cracked, damaged or worn.