Buying and owning
Tough and long-lasting bikes though the FJS are, some parts are in short supply: genuine plastics, brake discs, linkage pins, exhausts and shocks are some. A basically solid-looking and sounding FJ can be had for £1000 or less but do see what it needs before buying. Phil Hacker knows absolutely everything there is to know about 1100 and 1200s and he’s happy to advise on any Fj-related issue in a way your average official Yamaha dealer can’t hope to match. Here are some pearls. FJ engines are some of the toughest ever made. Maintained well, they’ll do as many as 200,000 miles, in some cases without even needing to lift the head. However, stuff like neglecting oil and filter changes, checking valves, or changing the air filters can lead to problems. Some issues, like stretched starter chains, can be left a while, even if they rattle a bit. If you need to sort them it’s a full and expensive strip. The FJOC can sort out jobs like this for around £350, and though you might be able to source a second-hand motor for a similar price, there’s no guarantee of its history. Using fully synthetic engine oil can cause issues with clutch and starter clutch slip. The former simply requires new friction plates to sort, the latter involves another full engine strip. If you do decide to tear a motor apart, do both the starter clutch and starter chain together. It’s worth looking at the cam chain while you’re in there too, though they can do massive mileages in a well-kept motor. Phil recommends using mineral oil in FJS, with Morris 20/50 for diesel engines being his preferred choice. The motor he’s run it on has now done 180k, with no major issues.
An FJ is an easy bike to clock, so check documents like MOTS and service records to help avoid this. Storing FJS without basic preparation beforehand will lead to all the normal problems like carb issues, so store it properly. Not running smoothly on all cylinders can be caused by holed carb diaphragms. None are likely to last more than 40,000 miles. Again the FJOC can offer a full and cheaper solution. Another biggie on pre-88 3CV models is jumping out of second gear. Call Mr Hacker and be prepared to give him £400 to fit a good used ‘box. There's trouble selecting neutral points to a leaking clutch slave cylinder. Renewing seals sorts it in the short term, but you may need to replace the whole unit. You can buy a new one for an XJR1300, which also shares the very majority of engine and carburettor components. Wobbly suspension is likely by now. A fork rebuild and replacement aftermarket
rear shock will have your FJ handling as it should have done once. Worn linkages will cause issues too, though stuff like cush drive rubbers, swingarm pivot and wheel bearings are surprisingly robust. Anti-dive valves aren’t really effective, until they seize and rob you of much fork travel. Braking performance should be good, but only it you keep the calipers serviced. Early R1/R6 blue spot calipers offer more power and fit straight on with altered length hoses. Electrical problems are rare on a well-kept bike. Corrosion is usually always the reason behind any failings. Reg/recs, mounted in the alternator, are tough as old boots. Exhaust retaining studs can snap off in the head, and though it’s dead easy to change the oil and filter (as is most other maintenance) don’t lose the oil filter’s spring and washer. If you do, the filter’s oil seal can collapse and let unfiltered oil circulate round the engine.