What to buy and how much to pay

There’s a true multiplicity of KH100 models so don’t assume they are all the same. Peripheral parts used vary from one market to another so don’t impulsively assume an imported machine you’re looking is automatically not factory correct. As an example the Australasian 1980/81 KH100EL runs chrome-plated shrouded shocks and forks along with wire spoked wheels and drum brakes. Yet the E3 model from the same year has exposed shock springs and fork sliders and runs a disc front brake. And to add to the fun the G2 model runs cast alloy wheels while the 1981 H1 (ELX) has a different seat and revised side-panels. Although you might expect to see differences year to year it’s not exactly the norm to see quite so many options across the same model year. And for that reason alone we’d strongly urge that you only ever buy a complete KH100 and walk away from one offered to you in countless boxes with so-called additional spares. The only exception here would be if you can persuade the vendor to loosely assemble the components into one approximate machine: if key components such as panels, seats and guards don’t fit, move on. Even small bikes like our KH100 here are no longer cheap. For an example, with everything there and the potential to run reckon on around £1000 and double that at least if it’s as good as the one in camera. Beyond that, the best KH100 really shouldn’t be any more than £3000 but remember you’d struggle to restore a wreck for that sort of money. Finally, don’t forgot to cross-reference parts needed with both the KE100 trail bike and the KC100 commuter as some key parts will be common to all three models.