Classic Motorcycle Mechanics

WORKSHOP: AIR-FILTERS

We’re breathing easier, thanks to Scoop with his guide on air filter renovation.

- WORDS AND PHOTOS: STEVE COOPER

Scoop shows how to renovate them. How kind!

Air filters perform a vital task on motorcycle­s by preventing abrasive particulat­es from entering the engine. Few if any bikes that fit within CMM’S remit ever arrived without one. Run your bike minus its filter? Then good luck; here’s hoping you have spare pistons, rings and the money for that imminent re-bore. Make no bones about it; that paper or foam filter is your front line between longevity and massive engine wear. Yes a filter adds a restrictio­n to the inlet but the various components within the carburetto­r(s) have been carefully chosen to work in harmony with the incoming filtered air. If you remove the filter then the engine will, de facto, run lean yet if the filter clogs up the engine will run rich; simple physics etc. The majority of classics run filters based around a pleated filter paper which generally sits in one or more pressed steel plates or registers and sometimes an inner core. Enclosed within a metal or plastic air-box they do a sterling job until either accumulate­d dirt or age gets the better of them. As supplies of New Old Stock filters diminish we classics fans are faced with stark choices. If we run without a filter the engine will run lean and potentiall­y hole pistons. If we fit aftermarke­t pod filters we lose originalit­y while potentiall­y introducin­g running issues or we opt for an aftermarke­t replacemen­t filter. Of the three the last is easily the best option as it retains the original equipment air-box and often manufactur­er or supplier may advise on whether there’s a need to change carburetto­r jetting. Which is all well and good if someone makes a replacemen­t filter for your bike, but what if they don’t? My Yamaha CS3C threw up exactly this issue in the course of its ongoing overhaul. As ever necessity is the mother of invention and lateral thought comes into play. Surely it’s possible to install new filter material to the original end plates? A damp winter’s morning sees a gentleman of a certain age in Halfords taking apart a myriad of car air-filter boxes. He holds a small steel rule and wears a puzzled expression…

When NOS filters are fetching silly money and their viability is questionab­le due to their age, refurbishi­ng what you have makes both mechanical and economic sense. With just one or two exceptions it should be possible to re-engineer a pleated paper air filter for almost any classic motorcycle.

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 ??  ?? 77/ The donor filter can now be dissected and very carefully liberated from its silicone rubber cuff. A deep, sharp, kitchen knife proved to be ideal to cut between the glued pleats. 8/ Next up the filter paper is opened out and marked to the required size. I found it best to fold the paper over a straight edge such as ruler. After this it’s back to primary school folding and gluing. 9/ The rather floppy concertina of filter paper is now compressed between two clean wooden blocks. This unifies the folds ready for the next stage.
77/ The donor filter can now be dissected and very carefully liberated from its silicone rubber cuff. A deep, sharp, kitchen knife proved to be ideal to cut between the glued pleats. 8/ Next up the filter paper is opened out and marked to the required size. I found it best to fold the paper over a straight edge such as ruler. After this it’s back to primary school folding and gluing. 9/ The rather floppy concertina of filter paper is now compressed between two clean wooden blocks. This unifies the folds ready for the next stage.
 ??  ?? 1210/ Before getting messy with the glue it’s a good idea to double check the pleats fit into the end plates of the old filters. 11/ Happy everything fits, the concertina is glued together with some brush-able super glue. This seems to give maximum stick with minimal mess and impact on the filter paper. 12/ I opted for one of the modern high strength varieties that will work in adverse conditions. It’s gunned into the end plate and carefully levelled just below its edge. The concertina is then gently pushed into place. 13/ Once the glue has started to set the other end plate can be glued on in the same manner. Here’s the pair after the second set of plates had been bonded in place. 14/ The sealing cuff is made from some self-adhesive draught excluder, which is then cut approximat­ely to size then finally finished off on some coarse sand paper using a rotary motion. 15/ Checked for size and fit then trimmed accordingl­y the foam is sealed with a coat of PVA glue… job done.
1210/ Before getting messy with the glue it’s a good idea to double check the pleats fit into the end plates of the old filters. 11/ Happy everything fits, the concertina is glued together with some brush-able super glue. This seems to give maximum stick with minimal mess and impact on the filter paper. 12/ I opted for one of the modern high strength varieties that will work in adverse conditions. It’s gunned into the end plate and carefully levelled just below its edge. The concertina is then gently pushed into place. 13/ Once the glue has started to set the other end plate can be glued on in the same manner. Here’s the pair after the second set of plates had been bonded in place. 14/ The sealing cuff is made from some self-adhesive draught excluder, which is then cut approximat­ely to size then finally finished off on some coarse sand paper using a rotary motion. 15/ Checked for size and fit then trimmed accordingl­y the foam is sealed with a coat of PVA glue… job done.
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