STOOL SAMPLE

Jim Lindsay builds a simple stool for his workshop.

Being a self-taught, amateur, part-time mechanic with the shortcomings that entails, I try to make life for myself in the workshop as easy as possible.

That means good lighting, the best tools I can afford, a clean, tidy environment and, most importantly, comfort while I work. I think (and hope) that if I am as comfortable as possible I am less likely to make mistakes. The chief aid in this is my hydraulic bike bench. The second element is a comfy seat so, whenever the task permits, I can work sitting down. The short wooden stool I’d been using for years finally called it quits so I repurposed it as a plant stand in the garden and started looking for a replacement.

I scoured all the usual places, but the more I looked, the more I found things I did not want. I did not want drawers, magnetic tool trays or anything like that. I wanted something small and simple so I decided to take a look in my metal racks to see if I had suitable material in sufficient quantity to make my own.

I found two good lengths of 20mm x 20mm x 3mm square steel tube for the legs, some 25mm x 25mm x 3mm angle iron for the top, some mild steel bar to make threaded lugs to mount the castors and, lucky surprise, an upholstered stool top for the seat, which came from my in-laws. All I had to buy was a set of four, three-inch diameter castors, which cost me £12 including postage: excellent. I was ready to start.

The first task was to make the threaded bushes to be welded into the bottom of the legs so I had a means of attaching the castors which came with M10 fixing bolts. I could have just welded some nuts to the bottoms of the legs, but threaded lugs look neater and also gave me a bit of time on the lathe, which I always enjoy.

After all these years I still enjoy simple tasks like cutting threads. I’ve retained enough of my inner child to find the process akin to magic. Using the technique I was taught in the school metalwork shop, I started the thread in the lathe to keep everything square, finished it off in the vice, then parted off the threaded bar to make four bushes.

Next off I cut the eight pieces of metal that would form the legs and top of the stool. The hacksaw is an important tool in any workshop, but for making lots of cuts I use a Draper bandsaw which I bought off ebay a few years back. It makes life easy, providing clean, square cuts in the heaviest material I am ever likely to use. I use soluble cutting oil (aka, suds oils) to prolong blade life – it’s a pain to change. I use my hydraulic bike bench pumped to the same height as the saw bed to support long lengths of metal.

I hummed and harred over whether to fit cross-braces between the legs, but decided that the whole structure was low and strong enough to support my weight without flexing. Handwork was needed to mitre the ends of the angle iron I was using for the top at 45 degrees. I used my TIG machine for the welding. I thought about using it in stick arc mode, which would have been fine for the job, but TIG is cleaner and also, I want the practice.

When making even a simple structure like this, it’s important to tack the component pieces together before welding them. All sorts of unwanted distortions can take place otherwise.

To keep everything square and stable I used magnetic clamps. A set of four clamps will provide enough grip for most simple projects and, considering how useful they are, can be had for a ridiculously reasonable £20 or so. Other options include toggle clamps, G-clamps and Mole grips. Each has its place.

Having tacked everything together, I checked to make sure that everything was square. I had to make a small adjustment to one of the legs with a couple of gentle taps before I set about doing the welding. I made the seat mount complete first, then attached the legs as a separate operation.

The final welding task was to fix the threaded bushes for the castors in the leg bottoms. This went well enough, although I did find it necessary to clean up the threads with a tap before calling the job good. So the seat could fit flush I ground off the welds on the top and that was it nearly done. I degreased the metal and brushed on a coat of Hammerite smooth blue. Twenty-four hours later it got a second coat. The day after I fitted the castors and attached the seat.

I sat on it; I glided round the workshop. It does the job nicely. The total cost was about £20. I could have spent a bit more and bought something ready-made, but I’m pleased I chose to make my own as it was an enjoyable and worthwhile exercise. Why not give it a go yourselves?

It worked well and was fun to make! What’s not to like?

Drilling a piece of bar for tapping. This is for the threaded inserts into which the castors are bolted.

Here are all the components laid out ready for assembly to begin.

Draper bandsaw makes short work of cutting the steel. Milky fluid is soluble cutting oil, also known as suds. Makes a fabulous smell when interacting with hot metal.

Starting the tapping process in the lathe using the tailstock barrel to keep the tap holder square to the hole.

Parting off the threaded bar to make four lugs.

Two coats of Hammerite later and with the castors attached, here is the finished article. Would you park your bum on this?

TIG welding the stool together.

Welds on the top of the stool needed grinding off to make a flush mounting for the seat pad.

First of the legs tack welded into position. The magnetic clamps keep the assembly secure and square during the process.

One of the threaded bushes for the castor mounts prior to being welded in place.