Closer (UK)

The vile truth behind your winter coat

As we start to wrap up for winter, Closer investigat­es the shocking reality behind puffer jackets and the everyday items that contain unethical down…

- By Poppy Danby

For years, fur has F been hitting the headlines as the most controvers­ial material lurking in winter wardrobes – but a recent investigat­ion has found that other coats may not be as animal-friendly as they seem.

Puffer jackets, popularise­d by celebritie­s such as Rihanna and Bella Hadid, are a major trend for this season. But they’re usually made from live-plucked or slaughtere­d birds. Live-plucking involves ripping feathers out of geese before using them in items such as jackets, sleeping bags and bedding. The birds have their feet bound together and are put in chokeholds to keep them still before being plucked. They then run back bleeding and screeching in pain to their flocks.

SLAUGHTERE­D

Many geese die during the painful process. However, those that survive can face the ordeal up to every six weeks for years as their feathers grow back, before finally being slaughtere­d for meat.

PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) first launched a campaign to rid the fashion industry of feather products last year following an investigat­ion in Asia, which revealed that there were up to 250,000 live pluckings every year, with tens of millions of birds affected annually.

However, the popularity of puffer jackets continues to rise, as research shows that online searches for the item of clothing rose 280 per cent last year.

And while it is believed that 80 per cent of the world’s down comes from China, the industry is also prevalent in eastern Europe. And PETA believes it could even be occurring in Britain – despite the industry being illegal.

Yvonne Taylor, the director of corporate projects at PETA, says, “Down is a difficult issue for animal welfare groups to campaign against as, without looking at the label, it’s almost impossible for a consumer to tell whether a jacket contains feathers or not.

SUFFERING

“Unlike fur, most people are also unaware of the torture that birds have to go through to collect feathers, and assume that it’s just a bi-product of the meat industry. However, in places like China and Eastern Europe, geese are reared for their down in a deadly process which leaves them bleeding and screaming out in pain. Designers are beginning to realise the unethical nature of down, but birds won’t stop suffering until the fashion industry is rid of feathers.”

As a result, Yvonne began writing to major shops and retailers last year to alert them to the danger of down.

She says, “Many retailers, such as Topshop, Cath Kidston and Hobbs, were horrified with the findings and immediatel­y pledged to stop producing any items containing down. Even outdoor specialist­s – whose brands are widely based on down – are beginning to stop selling it and are instead promoting the use of synthetic materials, such as Primaloft.

“But it’s still not a widely

❛THE BIRDS HAVE THEIR FEET BOUND TOGETHER AND ARE PLUCKED BARE❜

recognised issue and not all shops understand the seriousnes­s of the situation. It is up to the public to react and take a stand against feathers.”

And Yvonne explains that shoppers only need to take one simple step to avoid buying it.

She says, “People just need to check the label of the coat to see whether it contains feathers.

RAISING AWARENESS

“If they see something they like that uses down, it is crucial that they contact the designer or stockist to let them know they are against it via social media, email or through the PETA website. It only takes a few seconds, but it’s surprising­ly effective because retailers genuinely do care what people think about them.”

But ditching down doesn’t necessaril­y mean giving up on your favourite puffer.

Yvonne says, “New fabrics are being created all the time that are not only more animal-friendly, but also more effective. For example, there is a filler called Flocus, which is made from the fibres of kapok trees. And Save The Duck uses recycled plastic bottles instead of down. Both of these things are actually warmer, lighter and more waterproof than traditiona­l feathers.”

Although the campaign is only in its first year, Yvonne has high hopes for the future.

She says, “The use of down in coats is already becoming less popular, but as the weather starts to turn colder, it’s important that we try to raise awareness. There is no such thing as ethically sourced down and there’s never any guarantee that the animal hasn’t suffered. I’ll never be able to forget seeing footage of the birds in Asia screaming out in terror and running around with gaping wounds. There really are no downsides to going feather-free.”

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