Cash point:

Tackle these odd jobs and save £££s!

Sometimes, it’s essential to call in an expert, but you can save hundreds by rolling up your sleeves and taking on these simple jobs yourself, both in the home and the garden. Here’s our guide to becoming an odd-job pro…

PAINT A FENCE

“Summer is the perfect time to paint your fence, as there is less chance of rain, but check the forecast before you start,” says Paul Gibbens of Housebuyers4u.co.uk. “Prepare the fence by removing any old splinters, nails, or anything else affecting a smooth surface. If some areas are uneven, sand them down. Use a primer under the paint colour to make the paint job last. You can use exterior paints on something like a window or a summer house, but for sheds or fences, Cuprinol is ideal and much cheaper. If you want to paint your fence another colour, choose a water-based paint for outdoors for a cheaper alternative to exterior paint. If you have new fence panelling and you like the colour already, choose Cuprinol’s clear option. Around 0.5 litres will be needed per fence panel. The older the fence panel, the more paint you’ll need, as older, drier wood will soak up more of the product. Most outdoor paints will only need one coat, but use your judgement. If the colour isn’t bold enough, go for a second coat.”

SAVING UP TO £500

HANG WALLPAPER

“To remove wallpaper, first wet the wall, either with a steamer [around £30 to buy] or with hot wet cloths and a wallpaper scraper that should measure 3 inches wide,” says handyman Mick Miller. “Wet the entire wall and then begin scraping in an upwards motion to peel off the existing paper. Once it’s removed, you can start with the new. You’ll need a wallpaper table, wallpaper paste, and a pasting brush, plus another brush for when the paper is on the wall. If you don’t have a wallpaper table, an old door will suffice. You could cover your dining table with a plastic sheet, using masking tape to tape on the underside, but pay attention to any gaps as you don’t want paste getting on to your table! If that does happen, use a clean, soapy sponge to wipe it off immediately. The paper just needs to be unrolled flat so you can apply paste.

Start applying wallpaper in the corner of the room, measuring the width of the paper, and drawing a straight line with a pencil on the wall where the first sheet should end. Don’t cut the paper to the height of the wall – add an extra 10mm to the height of the wall. When the paper is on the wall, use a Stanley knife to carefully cut the excess. Once you’ve applied your first sheet, remove any bubbles by gently sweeping with a clean and dry wallpaper brush. If any paste goes on the wall, wipe it away with a clean, damp kitchen sponge. If you’re hanging patterned wallpaper, match the pattern correctly. Continue in the same fashion around the room. If you have radiators and windows, take extra care, but behind a radiator, let the wallpaper fall and don’t worry about it being perfect,” says Mick.

SAVING UP TO £1,000

UNBLOCK A SINK

“First, empty the water from the blocked sink with a cup,” says Mick. “Next, you can put caustic soda down the sink, which removes grease or fat. Leave the caustic soda for a few hours or overnight to work its magic. Another option is to remove the ‘trap’ in the sink (Google ‘sink trap’ to see what you’re looking for). The trap is a ‘p’ shaped bend in the sink. Before you begin unscrewing, put a bucket underneath, as the water from the sink will rush out. Check the water that runs into the bucket for any blockages (for example, an object or build-up of fats). If there is nothing obvious in the bucket, there may be something in the trap section of the pipe. Gently tip the trap and see if anything falls out. If something

is in the trap, a wire coat hanger should dislodge it. If the blockage isn’t in the trap, or in your bucket, it will be further down in the pipe. You’ll need to get a ‘drain snake’ – a kind of stick to move any blockages that are lower down in the pipe. A bit of poking around and persistence will see your object loosened and eventually dislodged,” says Mick. “To avoid further blockages, get a plug with a filter to stop things like potato skins and larger food items going down the sink.”

SAVING UP TO £60

GROUT TILES

“Dirt or mould on grout looks bad, can cause damp smells and could lead to potentially bigger issues down the line,” says Cory Powell of Decorative Bathroom Systems Ltd. ‘‘You’ll need a grout removal tool, which can be hired from your local tool hire shop, to take off the existing grout to a depth of at least 2mm. Clean out any debris using a damp cloth. Use a stiff nylon brush to brush out any remaining grout so the area is as clean as possible before regrouting. Mix your new grout with water according to the packet instructions, then apply to the tiles in small amounts. Using a grout float, spread the grout around, pressing into the joints between tiles to fill them completely. Wait a couple of minutes for it to start to harden before wiping away the excess with a damp sponge, being careful not to remove all the grout. Once the grout joints have hardened completely, use a damp cloth to remove any residue left on the tiles.”

SAVING UP TO £500

LAY A GARDEN PATIO

“Mark the area where you want your patio, so you can measure and work out how many paving slabs you’ll need,” says Paul Gibbens. “Dig down into the soil before you lay the slabs – around 150mm. Rake the soil so it’s even. The support layer of the patio is usually around 100mm thick and is laid first. This is a layer of rubble, like old bricks, old tiles, or stones, but they need to be flattened by walking over them and raking them, so the land is even before you lay the patio slabs. Add a mortar bed, which measures around 30mm in height, then you can add the patio tiles. Start closest to the house and leave between 10mm and 15mm between each tile. You can buy tile spacers to keep slabs evenly distanced, or if you have some wood lying around, cut a piece to the length you want and use that. If you use the same item every time, you’ll have evenly spaced tiles! After at least 24 hours, start filling the gaps between the tiles using mortar and a trowel. Use a dry mix of cement and sand and sweep into the gaps between the patio slabs. There is less margin for error than when using a trowel and grout. To set the mixture between the tiles, use a watering can, as a hose will be too forceful. This will secure the tiles in place. Try not to step on any while working as this will cause them to sink further into the soil than the other tiles, so work methodically, moving backwards towards the house. Use a spirit level to ensure they are straight. Once the tiles are in place, wait 24 to 48 hours for them to set.”

SAVING £1,000 TO £4,000

(based on 25m² to 45 m²)