THE COASTAL ADVENTURER
William Thomson tells us all about the wonders of foraging seaweed and its many and varied uses, from soaps to crisps
LAs William Thomson’s seaside living series for coast continues, this month he takes us into a fascinating underwater world of
seaweed and explains how to best enjoy its many benefits
ast month we learned that the days around this time of year are incredibly long as the northern hemisphere is at its maximum tilt towards the sun. At the North Pole this gives 24 hours of daylight; in Scotland it’s still light at 11pm (for every degree north of latitude, days get about four minutes longer). These long days result in more warmth, partly because the extended daylight gives land more time to heat up. But there is another reason, also to do with the tilt of the earth. You may think that as we facing the sun we are closer to it, which is why July is hotter than December – but this is not so. In fact, we’re furthest from the sun in July, because, as the moon has an elliptical (eggshaped) orbit around us, we have an elliptical orbit around the sun.
By chance, in July the earth is at its furthest point from the sun in this orbit. But in December, when the southern hemisphere has its summer solstice, the earth is closest to the sun, so its summer heating effect is boosted by also being closest to the sun.
The true reason July in Britain is so warm is because the sun’s rays are more concentrated, beaming down at a steeper angle. By contrast in December, the tilt of earth means the sun’s rays hit Britain at a shallow angle, making them less intense. In July, with the midday sun much higher in the sky, we get the full burst of its rays.
The reward is we get to luxuriate in warmth; no woolly clothing required. July is the time to lie on the warm sand and bask like a seal. However, if you are like me this is enjoyable only for a few minutes; after that I want to do something, ideally something mellow where you move as slowly as possible and maintain stable body temperature, while still feeling a sense of achievement from the task.
On a rocky shore, seaweed is all around you. Bountiful, delicious and packed with nutrients, seaweed is an incredible resource that can be used in the garden, kitchen and bathroom. However, for all its attributes, this wonder material is still somewhat unappreciated in Britain – although this is slowly changing. Maybe this is due to it being a bit of a tricky area with regard to foraging and harvesting rules. Members of the public in Britain are only allowed to gather a little seaweed for personal use – and of course you must
‘Seaweeds are packed with goodness and can be found on rocky shores all around Britain’
follow the usual foraging codes of conduct by being sensitive to the environment and only taking a small amount at a time – as long as it’s permitted by the landowner of the beach, which might be anyone from the National Trust to the local council to the Crown Estate. You can only collect it commercially as a forager by obtaining a seaweed harvesting licence from the relevant authority, such as the Crown Estate. But there are creative people around the country showing us what can be done with these aquatic plants, inspired by parts of the world where seaweed is a valuable commodity. Luckily, two live near me in Kent – in Deal, Lucia Stuart is a licensed forager who specialises in seaweed cuisine, and in Margate is Haeckels, a luxury cosmetics brand founded by Dom Bridges.
The joy of seaweeding is that the vital ingredient is abundant, and free! The easiest way to navigate the myriad rules is join a licensed forager on a hunt – many run foraging expeditions.
Most expeditions will involve gathering several different types of seaweed, so bring a bag with separate compartments. I suggest a colour-coordinated set of overboard bags. Being waterproof, they keep the dripping seawater contained in the bag, and can easily be washed down afterwards to keep them clean.
HAECKELS
A bar of Haeckels soap, officially called ‘exfoliating seaweed block’, is one of my necessities. I always keep a spare block on a high shelf of the shower, well out of reach of the children – this stuff is not cheap. It is phenomenal though – the quantities of bright white lather are incomparable to any other soap I have used, and the feeling of freshness to start your day is well worth the money.
Haeckels uses locally sourced seaweeds to make facial products, skin hydration and bath treatments. But its portfolio is not restricted to products; it offer experiences too, including facials and even a sauna on Margate Beach. The term used is the wonderful ‘thalassotherapy’, defined as the use of seawater in cosmetic and health treatment.
TEAMING UP
Last summer I did a Seaweed Masterclass with Lucia Stuart, who runs The Wild Kitchen. The concept was for me to share knowledge of how to navigate the tides safely, while Lucia
showed us what seaweeds to gather and what to do with them. I was amazed by the variety of dishes from a food source I had never appreciated before, and my favourite was the simple ‘Seaweed Crisp’. Here is Lucia’s recipe… At home pre-heat the oven to about 180˚. Sprinkle a roasting tin with a few drops of cooking oil; my favourite is walnut oil. Trail the seaweed throughout the oil until it is lightly coated. Arrange two or three fronds on the tray well apart for maximum dry heat.
Put the roasting tin into a medium-hot oven and roast the seaweed for about 12 minutes turning it regularly with tongs.
The skill in cooking seaweed crisps is in the timing. Remove them from the oven before they are properly cooked and they will be tough, not crispy; but they can burn quickly once the water evaporates. They should melt in the mouth and taste delicious as the flavours intensify. Four-fifths of seaweed is water so as a cook I much prefer to use it dried or roasted. Eat immediately while hot.
This recipe is one of my favourites, not only because it is delicious but it is also quick and easy. The taste is intense and full of the sea, and it feels like stepping back in time to when we hunted and gathered along the shores of Britain dressed in loincloths. It definitely makes a contrast to shiny ‘sea salt’ crisps from the supermarket, and is infinitely more authentic. Give it a go!
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Licensed forager Lucia shows how it’s done; William’s partner Naomi when the pair joined Lucia for some foraging; making seaweed crisps