FILLEDUPAT THESETIN BRIGHTON
DON'T I RECOGNISE THIS PLACE?
Possibly. It was the shameful star of an episode of TV’s The
Hotel Inspector. Don’t stop reading, though, as this place has had a pretty spectacular transformation, and there’s an awesome backstory. Owner Justin Salisbury’s mum had a run-down B&B but was injured in an accident before she could do it up, so her 20-year-old son got involved. Short of money but strong on ideas, he asked artists to decorate in return for board and lodging, and the result was a chaotic, unclean hotel with some good art. Post-TV makeover, Justin’s now the proud owner of the coolest hotel (known as the Artist Residence) and restaurant in Brighton. Intrigued? YEP, TELL ME MORE...
Well, Justin drafted in two hip young chefs and opened The Set Restaurant and Cafe – an instant hit with locals who loved the inventive dishes and laid-back vibe. There’s pop art on the walls, reclaimed wood everywhere, an open kitchen, and only 20 seats; it’s the kind of small, rustic, urban place you find on every corner of Shoreditch. I tried carrot, egg, cornichon and mustard, then partridge, beetroot and red cabbage, all a dazzling assault on the taste buds, and like little works of art. Oh, and not forgetting a brownie made from a Mars bar, marshmallows and bourbon ice cream. Which is the best dessert ever and I’ll arm-wrestle anyone who disagrees. Tip: can’t get into The Set Restaurant? Try the tapas-style Cafe next door (it’s the same kitchen with some of the same dishes). DO THE BEDROOMS MATCH THE HYPE? What do you want to do when it’s late and you’ve got a belly full of food and wine? Lie down somewhere, preferably on a bed. Luckily our room was only up one flight of stairs, so we crashed out there and took in the low-lit sofa made from pallet wood, Roberts Radio playing croony jazz, sexy supermodel murals on the wall and mini Smeg fridge with treats like sweet and salty popcorn stacked on top. The whole vibe perfectly matched the cool scene downstairs. The next day I noticed little extras, like a rack with glasses and a bottle of wine hung up near the bed. Five-star hotels, keep your marble bathrooms and snooty service, I’ll take the Artist Residence’s reclaimedwood shower room, and the giggly waitress at breakfast any day. ROAM OR GO HOME?
Definitely roam (after shovelling in as many fluffy pancakes with crispy bacon as you can at breakfast). The hotel is on Regency Square, one of Brighton’s prettiest, and The Lanes, full of bohemian boutiques and cafés, are just around the corner. Or just sit on the beach and gaze at the sky if the weather’s good. If it rains, Artist Residence has a ping-pong table and cocktail shack. Just saying.