What’s the deal with … Dark-skin care

Finally, skincare for women of colour has arrived. So who’s it good news for – cosmetic brands or us? We’re all the same, aren’t we? Yeah, but our skins aren’t. Dark skin tones have specific requirements. Such as? Hyperpigmentation is a big deal. Any form of injury or inflammation (spots, picking, harsh skincare, UV rays) that causes redness in white skin will bring about a surge of pigment-making cells in black skin. Result: dark spots that take a very long time to fade. What else? Despite being genetically more prone to breakouts, dark skins also tend to be dehydrated. So instead of skin-strippers like alcohol or glycolic acid, ingredients to protect the lipid barrier are really important, along with lots of moisture. Specifics, please. The Dr Barbara Sturm Darker Skin Tones range uses enzymes and salicylic acid to purify and gently peel skin. It also has an anti-inflammatory botanical to prevent flare-ups, and oil-free hyaluronic acid to hydrate. Epara Skincare inhibits melanin over-production and has nourishing plant oils that balance oil production (yes, good oils do that). What should I look for in ‘regular’ brands? Seek out enzymatic cleansers, plant oils, glycerin- or hyaluronic acid-based moisture and antioxidants. Avoid anything aggressive and potentially irritating, such as fragrance, retinoids and glycolic acid. Anything else? No matter how dark you are, no SPF means pigmentation and faster ageing: chemical sunscreens or nano zinc oxide won’t look ashy on your skin.