The MUA Cheat Sheet
Want to take your brushwork to new heights? Let the experts help
1 How do I spot a quality brush?
According to Boikou, if the tip of a brush feels rough and the bristles are thick and blunt, they have been cut into shape (a bad sign): “It should be laid into shape in a specific mould and bound together with string.” Look for brushes with several layers of lacquer on the handle, which protects it from swelling in humid air. Sophie and Hannah Pycroft advise choosing “densely packed” brushes, and Molloy prefers a weighted brush – which helps with leverage and control – and a copper or nickel ferrule (the metal part around the bristles), as aluminium ferrules dent more easily.
2 Should I go for synthetic or natural?
The brush fibres you choose depend on both your politics and your preferences. It’s true that natural bristles work best with powders, bronzers, blush and dry shadows, while synthetic bristles work better with creamier formulas (though they can also cope with powder, Chapman assures). But if you’re seeking vegan and cruelty-free brushes, opt for synthetic, as natural bristles, in most cases, are sourced from animal hair. Helpfully, synthetic bristles are also easier to clean because they don’t have the cuticles that natural hairs do, so they don’t trap make-up as easily.
3 I’m having major fallout struggles.
If you feel like your shadow’s crumbling under your eyes (a common struggle) Chapman suggests trying to apply thinner, lighter layers of product. Overloading your brush with more than it can hold will mean it sheds excess pigment as soon as it gets to your face (that’s why you’re looking like Marilyn Manson whenever you try to go smoky). Gone a little overboard? Tap the excess powder off your brushes before it reaches you (don’t blow – think of the bacteria!). It’s also worth investing in an eye-make-up primer if you’re going ultra-heavy on the pigment.
4 Why aren’t things blending right?
Feel like you’re constantly battling patchy areas that resist your blending brush? The problem probably lies in how you’re holding the brush. To solve your blending woes, Molloy suggests using lighter pressure when applying pigment. Holding a brush close to the bristles makes for heavier pressure, which isn’t ideal if you’re after the flawless look. Grip no closer than where the ferrule meets the handle – and holding even further up can make for a super-subtle, pro effect. The more layers you apply, the lighter the pressure should be.