The secret to your best skin ever

Retinol (which hails from vitamin A) can be a legitimate miracle worker that erases fine lines, brightens your complexion and clears up acne. But: use it wrong and you’re in for a fright. Here’s our guide to getting it right first time

in a world full of over-hyped and not-so-effective skincare products, retinol (a derivative of vitamin A) is the one ingredient that can legitimately do a Cher and turn back time. But it does more than just antiageing: vitamin A is the heavyweight of the beauty world, here to save you from all your most annoying skin issues. Looking to smooth your lines? Retinol. Want a bright complexion and smaller-looking pores? Oh, hi retinol. Need to clear up your breakouts? Retinol again. Retinol increases cell turnover (AKA your skin’s natural renewal process), signals collagen and elastin production (two proteins responsible for your skin’s firmness and plumpness) and regulates oil production, explains dermatologist Dr Kenneth Howe. But as with all good things, there’s a catch: retinol can be confusing as hell to use, and there’s an adjustment period during which your skin can turn red and flaky. Before you dive in at the deep end, here’s everything you need to know…

Retinol can smooth and brighten skin, replacing your acid toner

THE BASICS Unless you’re using retinol to treat acne, you don’t need to start using it until your early thirties. “Retinol increases collagen production and reduces the breakdown of existing levels, which drop 1% each year from the age of 25 onwards,” explains dermatologist Dr Justine Kluk. “There is no significant benefit of introducing it at an earlier age.” Not only that, but there are certain groups of people who should avoid it. If you suffer from eczema or rosacea, or are pregnant, “you may be better served by options such as peptides or bakuchiol (a plant-based retinol alternative)”, says Dr Kluk. Sensitive skins can use retinol, but be sensible: start with the lowest strength you can find (0.01 to 0.03%) and phase it into your routine gradually (twice a week) to see how your skin reacts.

Retinol is a photosensitiser, which, as Dr Kluk explains, means it can cause unpleasant skin reactions if applied prior to sun exposure. Traditional retinol (more on that later) can also be “inactivated” by exposure to sunlight, reducing its effectiveness – which is why you should incorporate it into your night-time routine and always use sunscreen during the day. In terms of your skincare routine, dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting recommends applying a pea-sized amount of retinol after cleansing (before moisturiser) every third night. If your skin reacts well, build up over a six-week period to every other night and, eventually, nightly. Sensitive skin? Dr Bunting suggests applying retinol 20 minutes after you moisturise, rather than directly onto cleansed skin. Look for formulas like her Flawless Nightly Serum, £39, which includes niacinamide (along with retinol). This active ingredient boosts ceramides (which help skin retain moisture) and barrier function, making skin more adaptable to retinoids. These steps will prevent flaking skin – a common side effect of retinol use. Once you’ve got the basics down, it’s time to streamline the rest of your routine. “Introducing one active ingredient at a time is much easier to manage and reduces the risk of irritation, as there’s only one variable at play,” advises Dr Bunting. This includes acid toners, which, as Dr Kluk explains, aren’t necessarily needed when retinol can smooth, brighten and reduce fine lines itself. Her ideal retinol skincare routine? A mild cleanser, soothing moisturiser, sunscreen and a vitamin-C antioxidant serum, switching the last two for retinol at nighttime. Simple.