The name game

Google “retinol” and you'll come across the word “retinoid”. It’s the umbrella term for vitamin A in all its forms – but not all of them are created equal. Here’s the lowdown on the most popular retinoids… Retinyl esters

These are the gentlest retinoids, ideal for anti-ageing newbies and sensitive-skin types. Look for retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate on the label.

Retinyl retinoate

Labelled as the “new-generation retinol”, it delivers all the same benefits as prescription-strength formulas, but is less sensitising due to the fact it converts to retinoic acid at a slower rate on skin. Pricey, but worth it if you’ve got the budget.

Bakuchiol

So this technically isn’t a retinoid, but it’s used in tonnes of products as a natural retinol alternative. The plant-based ingredient has been shown to work in a similar way to retinol, but with fewer irritating side effects.

Retinol

Can be found in many over-thecounter anti-ageing creams and serums. “Unlike stronger retinoids, once absorbed by the skin, retinol needs to be converted into retinoic acid to bind to the skin’s retinoid receptors and work its magic,” says Dr Howe.

Retinaldehyde

According to skincare brand and retinol specialists Medik8, retinaldehyde works 11 times faster than retinol. This is because it converts to retinoic acid more quickly, meaning you will see results sooner than you would with retinol.

Adapalene

This prescription medication is most commonly used to

treat acne, says Dr Howe. It’s available online through Boots and Superdrug (look for Differin) if you complete a consultation, but we recommend talking to your GP first.

Tretinoin (retinoic acid)

You’ve probably heard of this under one of its prescription brand names, Retin-A. Retinoic acid (the active form of vitamin A) is supreme at fighting ageing and acne – but it’s very powerful, and only to be used if prescribed.