Gill Meller (Quadrille, £25) Gill is a chap, chef at the River Cottage. His book is a bit pretentious and goody-goody, but the dishes are inspiring. However, you need loads of cheek to forage other people’s wild garlic and finding squirrel to roast isn’t easy. Andrew Montgomery’s photographs make it all worthwhile.
Food for All Seasons
Oliver Rowe (Faber & Faber, £20) The author worked at Moro with experience at Chez Panisse in California. His book also relies on fashionable foraging for rosehips, medlars and, again, wild garlic. Like other chefs, he just assumes we can buy fresh wild mushrooms.