What to drink this week

Time to stock up

Country Life Every Week - - Town & Country Notebook -

This col­umn doesn’t usu­ally em­ploy the gen­er­ally de­spised tech­nique of the hard sell, but I do feel that, if you have any gaps in your cel­lar, or even if you do not, now is the time to stock up. There may be many rea­sons to de­spair of the world, but a lack of avail­abil­ity of won­der­ful wines at rea­son­able prices isn’t one of them.

Harry Eyres

Why you should be stock­ing up

How long the last of these el­e­ments— the rea­son­able prices—will con­tinue is any­body’s guess. A great, late sum­mer saved 2016 (vint­ners in Bordeaux, Bur­gundy and the Douro are all bullish), but quan­tity is sharply down in many places. A de­pressed pound doesn’t help.

What to buy

I’ve been bang­ing on about 2014 white Bur­gundies, but they’re truly mar­vel­lous and worth snap­ping up. The Ch­ablis Pre­mier Cru Beau­roy 2014 from Ben­jamin Laroche is sub­tle, stony and long—it’s worth buy­ing at the usual price of £24.99 from www. naked­wines.co.uk and a steal at the mem­bers’ price of £17.99. A lit­tle fur­ther south, in Beau­jo­lais, 2015 was an ex­cep­tional vin­tage: Mor­gon 2015 Château de Pizay (be­low right, £10.99; www.ma­jes­tic.co.uk) is deep, vel­vety and de­li­cious. In Bordeaux, the 2014 vin­tage pro­duced lovely, sappy and quite for­ward wines: try the fra­grant, com­plex and sub­stan­tial cru bour­geois Château La Croix de Mar­buzet 2014 (right, £18.99; www.waitrose.com). It is pos­si­ble 2015 and 2016 might turn out to be bet­ter vin­tages, but they will be pricier. And there is more out there: the clas­sic 2015 vin­tage in Ger­many, to name just one.

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