It’s no yolk

Add a lit­tle eggs-trav­a­gance to the ta­ble this Easter Sun­day with Si­mon Hop­kin­son’s deca­dent meringue pud­dings

Country Life Every Week - - Contents - Si­mon Hop­kin­son

Sur­ren­der to Si­mon Hop­kin­son’s sin­ful meringue pud­dings

‘Which is cor­rect–the yolk of an egg are white or the yolk of an egg is white?’

HERE is an old-fash­ioned trick ques­tion for the lit­tle ones over break­fast on Easter Sun­day: ‘Which is cor­rect—the yolk of an egg are white or the yolk of an egg is white?’ Hope­fully, the an­swer from the bray­ing clutch will be the lat­ter, but, of course, as any fule kno, both an­swers are wrong—the yolk of an egg is yel­low! Or of a gor­geous, al­most orange hue, if you use the won­der­ful Bur­ford Brown eggs from Clarence Court (www. clarence­court.co.uk).

Any­way, I re­main en­chanted by the sim­plest of rid­dles and word play, par­tic­u­larly when you can pass on what you were told as a child.

The egg whites in the fol­low­ing two recipes are nicely white, es­pe­cially when whipped up to a snow-like fluff. These days, con­ve­niently, it’s pos­si­ble to pur­chase car­tons of pas­teurised egg whites in the su­per­mar­ket. This re­lieves the ne­ces­sity to fash­ion bowls of may­on­naise and hol­landaise sauce with the yolks, sim­ply to have an ex­cuse to make meringues—well, that’s how it used to be when I was a young, bud­ding cook in my mother’s in­spir­ing kitchen.

With her in­nate sen­si­bil­ity still well in mind, I’m as­ton­ished that sup­pos­edly in­formed cook­ery writ­ers and chefs re­main ig­no­rant over how essential it is to dust the sur­face of a meringue pud­ding—lemon meringue pie or the recipe be­low, say—with caster sugar be­fore bak­ing. With­out it, the de­scrip­tion ‘leath­ery’ is al­most too kind an ep­i­thet.

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