What to drink this week

Easter reds

Harry Eyres recommends something with a spring in its step to accompany your Paschal lamb

Easter comes at a time of renewal. Spring is in the air and, without getting too theological, we can speak of rebirth, of coming back to life after the long winter. Sacrifice is also part of the Easter story and has roots that go back before the New Testament to the Old—the lamb at the centrepiece of our Easter meal is a kind of sacrificial victim, but it’s one that signifies new life.

Why you should be drinking them

Which wine best accompanies the Paschal lamb? I favour the fresh, youthful, lively and vibrant over the mature and sober-suited. Christmas may be the time for a stately Bordeaux cru classé, but Easter seems the moment to uncork something wilder and more unpredictable, with a spring in its step. The garriguecovered hillsides of Provence and Languedoc-roussillon are historically France’s oldest wine areas; the latter, in terms of renaissance of quality, is also its newest.

What to drink

The buyers at From Vineyards Direct are particularly strong in this area. Domaine Durieu Ventoux 2015 (£8.95; www.fromvineyardsdirect.com) punches well above its price with lovely, fresh Syrah character. For more depth and a satisfying rich softness, try Château Trillol, Corbieres 2012 (£12.95; as above). Domaine la Grange Clos Prat Bibal 2013 (right, £10.95; as above), a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, has huge colour and an almost Spanish ripeness and richness—like exceptionally good-value Châteauneuf-du-pape. Château de la Négly, Languedoc La Côte 2015 (£11.95; as above) features those same grapes plus Carignan, but in an altogether fresher, more overtly fruity style.