What to drink this week

Godello Don’t miss out on the ‘white Burgundy of Spain’, urges

Readers of this column may remember that I’m a fan of Albariño, the floral-scented, white-peach-flavoured white from the rías or sea-lochs of Galicia in north-west Spain. However, there is another Galician white grape, less common and widely planted (in fact, it almost became extinct in the 1970s), which may have even greater potential—this is Godello, planted in the denominaciónes de origen (DO) of Valdeorras, Monterrei and Ribeira Sacra, a little further inland than the coastal DO of Rías Baixas where the Albariño grape thrives.

Why you should be drinking it

Godello may not be as floral and immediately appealing as Albariño, but it has even more depth and ageing potential. According to no less an authority than Jancis Robinson, it has the quality and structure to be the white Burgundy of Spain.

What to drink

Godello Maga Karma do Sil 2015 from Ribeira Sacra (below, £12.95, currently on sale for £9.50; www. leaandsandeman.co.uk) is a good, fresh and crisp example of Godello, with the trademark hints of white peach and firm structure, but less expressive than the very finest examples. Even better value is Rompeolas (the name means breakwater, but I can’t see the connection) Godello 2016 (£8.50; www.thewinesociety. com) from the Monterrei DO: quite restrained on the nose, it’s minerally, but with good ripeness on the palate and is reminiscent to me of unoaked Chablis, at about half the price. Most expressive of the Godellos I have been tasting is Castillo de Monterey Godello 2016 (£9.50; www.marksand spencer.com), with a beautiful, greenish-gold colour, an apricot and herb nose, rich entry and then a slightly bitter finish.