What to drink this week Domaine du Pélican

Harry Eyres celebrates these Jura wines with a Burgundian touch

I liked introducing readers and others to Jura wines when they were still relatively undiscovered and eccentric. The cognoscenti had heard of the sherry-like vin jaune and perhaps even of obscure grape varieties such as Trousseau and Poulsard, but part of the attraction was that these wines were made by artisan wine-growers in a remote area, untouched by the winds of fashion. All that has changed. Jura is now in vogue in serious wine circles. Some of the producers now wear not blue overalls, but the finest suits from Charvet.

Why you should be drinking them

One of those producers is Guillaume d’angerville, owner of the celebrated and very fine Marquis d’angerville estate in Volnay and now of the 37-acre Domaine du Pélican between Arbois and Montigny. The story goes that M. d’angerville tasted a Chardonnay in a Parisian restaurant blind and was astonished to find that it came not from the Côte d’or, but from Jura. His new estate, like the Volnay one, is farmed biodynamically and brings a distinctively Burgundian touch, but remains true to the individuality of Jura.

What to drink

Pélican is as much focused on reds as whites. The Trois Cepages Arbois Domaine du Pélican 2016 (below, £32.10; www.justerinis.com) is intense and savoury, showing its Pinot Noir credentials with pure raspberry fruit. The other grape varieties are Trousseau and Poulsard. The Chardonnay Arbois Domaine du Pélican 2016 (£32.10; www.justerinis. com) has great mineral intensity and finesse, with a distinctively Jurassien note of fragrant herbs and beautiful purity. The Savagnin Ouillé Domaine du Pélican 2016 (£32.10; www.justerinis.com) is piercingly fresh and subtle.