BACK TO THE LAND
Eschewing intensive farming methods, Jonathan and Mel Brunyee rely on wild flowers to put the goodness back into their soil, ensuring their Cotswolds farm remains sustainable and carbon-neutral
Jonathan and Mel Brunyee rely on wild flowers to put the goodness back into the soil on their Cotswolds farm
rich with colourful blooms and the hum of insects, the beautiful summer meadows of Conygree Farm in Gloucestershire could be a snapshot from a time before intensive farming and mechanisation. But, for Jonathan and Mel Brunyee, this traditional mixed farm isn’t living in the past – it offers a vision of the future. In a time when agriculture is responsible for ten per cent of the UK’S greenhouse emissions, and the depleting quality of our topsoil suggests current farming techniques will be viable for only another ‘100 harvests’, the approaches being developed by farmers such as this couple have never been more important. “At the moment, food that’s not so good for the wider environment or for our health is cheaper than more sustainable food,” Jonathan says. “All the external costs of pollution and biodiversity loss are picked up elsewhere. It’s a crazy situation. But food production doesn’t have to come at the expense of nature. Brexit offers British farmers a chance to design a new and more harmonious system that links farming, food, environment and public health – and that’s what we’re trying to do here.”
A SUSTAINABLE APPROACH
Jonathan and Mel’s vision is of a farm business that puts back more than it takes out, which prioritises soil health and minimises its carbon footprint. Since the agricultural revolution of the 1900s, farming has been powered by fossil fuels – using artificial fertiliser, relying on larger machinery, and storing and transporting more produce. Heavy ploughing led to the loss of soil’s organic matter to the atmosphere and the increased demand for red meat meant more cattle producing methane. Conygree is different: it’s a carbon-neutral farm. “We use very little diesel, no artificial fertiliser or sprays, and plough only when absolutely necessary. We are rebuilding soil carbon in our pastures, which are fed by nitrogen-fixing plants, such as clover and bird’s-foot trefoil, and manure from grazing animals. Newly planted trees and hedges also act as carbon sinks,” Jonathan explains. “Our cattle still produce methane but, on balance, we lock in more carbon dioxide than we give out.”
CHOOSING A DIFFERENT PATH
Jonathan took on the tenancy of the 180-acre farm in 2004. At the time, the land was mostly arable, with a thin, stony soil that had been neglected for decades. “I’m from a farming family, but always knew I didn’t want to be an intensive farmer focused solely on yields. As a youngster, my main farm jobs were planting trees, digging ponds and moaning at my production-orientated dad about the loss of lapwings!” says Jonathan, who went on to study environmental management before working as a farm environment advisor for ten years. “But I always wanted to return to my practical farming roots. When Conygree came up for rent, the National Trust (who owned it) were looking for a conservation focused farmer willing to do things a little differently – it was an opportunity to start practising what I preached.”
As the farm had not been grazed for many years, the first job was to tackle acres of thistle and dock, reseed the majority of the arable areas back to wild-flower meadows and pasture, and erect 7km of fencing for livestock. Rebuilding the depleted soil with
organic matter and microbes was crucial – and much of that work was done by introducing animals to create a traditional mixed farm.
Mel, who previously managed conservation grazing operations on Norfolk Wildlife Trust’s nature reserves, joined Jonathan at Conygree when they married in 2010. Her conservation experience helped them form the farm’s own grazing strategy where the diverse range of plants is good for both wildlife and meat-production. “We say that we turn sunlight into Sunday dinner,” Mel says. “We chose rare-breed sheep and cattle, as they thrive on the grassland and are well suited to our free-range system. They eat a natural diet of grass, wild flowers and herbs – they never get any grains or imported soya. The only external input is the sun’s energy and rainfall.”
GUARDIANS OF NATURAL HABITATS
During the summer, the 60 Cotswold sheep and 12 traditional Hereford cattle graze Conygree’s herb-rich leys – grassland seeded with plants such as modern cultivars of chicory and clover, which are also beneficial to insect and birdlife. The wild-flower meadows are left ungrazed so they grow and set seed for another year, and then hay is made for feeding in the winter (modern silage is cut earlier than hay and has less wildlife value). The meadows are then ‘aftermath’ grazed in the autumn and winter months. Alongside this, flower-rich field margins are left untouched as wildlife corridors, and fields of cereal are managed for seed- and insect-eating farmland birds.
The result of this ‘habitat mosaic’ is a haven for avian visitors, including yellowhammers, barn owls and corn buntings. As well as 1,000-strong flocks of finches, an ever-increasing number of plant species also benefits. “A proper wild-flower meadow is a sight to behold,” Jonathan says. “They’re full of colour, scent and insect life. We have more than 100 species of native grass, flower and herb in our meadows, all maturing at different times. Spring is good for cowslips; early summer is awash with orchids; and at this time of year there’s common centaury, marjoram, selfheal and knapweed. Skylarks nest in the open patches, barn owls hunt for voles, and hares dance through tussocks. Wandering through the meadows and taking photos is the highlight of my summer. I am always tweeting pictures of my finds!”
A SUPERIOR KIND OF MEAT
There are benefits for the farm’s customers, too. Meat from 100 per cent grass-fed animals is said to be higher in omega-3 fats and certain vitamins and minerals than grain-fed animals, and healthy animals mean less antibiotic use. “Rare breeds put on a little extra fat and that’s where the taste is. People say it’s just the best beef, lamb and hogget they’ve ever tasted – we’ve won several National Trust Fine Farm Produce Awards in recent years,” Mel adds.
As stocking rates are low, adding value by direct sales is crucial to their business model. Conygree meat used to be sent across the UK by mail order, but now the Brunyees keep things local to reduce food miles. Around late September, an email goes out to customers to let them know that the Cotswold lambs that have grazed the meadows all summer long will be reaching maturity. “We encourage people to pop in for their collections and take a walk around the farm or sit quietly and be mindful in one of the meadows,” Mel says. “They leave feeling calm and full of wonder.”
For British farmers, the Brunyees see an increased embracing of diversity – of species and habitats, plus land use and management. “The mixed farm became unpopular with the drive for cheap production, but that is changing. More farmers are using animals and grass in their rotation again to combat resistant weeds and poor soil health, and improve carbon emissions,” Jonathan says. “Many people thought we were mad a few years ago, but the industry and Government policy seems to be catching up. This is better for the planet, animals and a farmer’s bank balance. It’s a system for the future.”
For more information, visit conygreefarm.co.uk. To find 100 per cent pasture-fed meat near you, go to pastureforlife. org /where-to-buy.