Alnmouth

NORTHUMBERLAND

From the saltmarsh teeming with winter waders to the pastel-coloured cottages on the banks of the River Aln, it’s hard to believe that Alnmouth used to be a busy grain port. The industry thrived until Christmas Day 1806, when a storm diverted the river and stranded the harbour. Fortunately, the village recovered, becoming a popular resort for Victorian holidaymakers. Today, visitors still flock to explore the rugged coastline and the surrounding AONB.

WHAT TO DO Walk around Alnmouth saltmarsh and dunes, designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest for its plant and birdlife. Head towards the estuary, passing a series of concrete cubes placed during the Second World War as a defence against German invasion, and looking out for The Ferryman’s Hut. The tiny structure was once the shelter of ferrymen who would row people across the river for a fee. Today, at just 2.7 x 2.1m, it is one of the UK’S smallest museums and displays a wealth of old photos. Standing on Church Hill across the bay, St Cuthbert’s Cross marks the spot where the eponymous monk agreed to become saint of Lindisfarne in the 7th century. It looks particularly spectacular against the sunset.

WHERE TO STAY A stone’s throw from the high street and seashore, Alnbank is a self-catered flat in a Victorian villa (northumbria-cottages.co.uk). After a blustery beach walk, warm up in front of an open fire with a cup of coffee from Lindisfarne roastery Pilgrim’s Coffee. But if you’re longing for a home-cooked breakfast, head for St Valery, a beautiful boutique B&B with king-size beds (stvaleryalnmouth.com).