WELLS DRESSED AND BLESSED

In a tiny village in Derbyshire, volunteers spend weeks decorating the local wells, a seasonal custom with a mysterious origin

In a Derbyshire village, a curious custom draws visitors from near and far

Well dressing adds vibrant colour to the pretty streets and unites the community

here’s a sense of anticipation in the air in Tissington in the Derbyshire Dales. It’s midmay and, for the past week, six teams have been secretly meeting to construct decorations for the annual well-dressing event. It’s a big deal for the village, attracting thousands of spectators, and it will start on Ascension Day when a company of clergymen will work their way around town, blessing each decorated well – which will remain dressed for a week.

In the vicarage garden, Diana is joined by her sister Gill and best friend Lindi. Stooped over large wooden boards covered in clay, the trio work on their design – an intricate depiction of Jonah and the Whale – pressing white and cerulean hydrangea petals into the sky. “It’s the most extraordinary experience,” says Gill, who has taken part for the past seven years. “Completely exhausting and yet strangely meditative.” This evening, they will assemble their dressing at Hall Well, one of six springs in the village, each with its own name. They will also see the five other designs for the first time. “There’s always a healthy dose of competition. Each group keeps its ideas firmly under wraps,” Diana admits. “It’s nerve-wracking when they are unveiled, but wonderful to see everyone’s hard work pay off.”

A MIRACLE OCCURRED HERE

The origins of Tissington’s well-dressing tradition is a mystery. According to some accounts, it started as a pagan ritual to give thanks to the gods for providing fresh water. Others trace it back to 1349, when the Black Death swept across England – apparently sparing Tissington – with the village putting its survival down to the purity of the water. Another belief is that the custom begun during a drought 300 years later. While cattle and crops struggled in other parts of the country, Tissington’s wells are said to have flowed freely, enabling it to revive local communities.

Tissington is not the only area to celebrate this ancient rite: a scattering of other villages around the country, especially across Derbyshire and Staffordshire, hold a similar event (see box). But whichever miraculous explanation is true, well dressing is now firmly part of the calendar round here, adding vibrant colour to the pretty streets and uniting the community in the process.

EXCITEMENT AND TREPIDATION

The official ‘overseer’ of the festivities is Sir Richard Fitzherbert. He’ll spend the day checking the village is ready for visitors and that each group of designers and makers is happy with their decoration. The Tissington

OPPOSITE All the flowers used are picked locally. The design is traced onto the boards and marked out with cones from alder trees or coffee beans. It is

then filled in with flower petals and other natural materials. Each petal is put in separately, overlapping so any rain won’t destroy the picture

The inventive designs take some planning. For a few days before any well dressing begins, the boards on which the pictures are mounted are soaked in the village pond. After this, they are plastered in clay, sourced from the area, mixed with salt and trampled on (just like grapes in winemaking)

Estate has been in his family since the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. He inherited it in 1989. “This is a fantastic community event but one I approach with excitement and trepidation in equal measure,” says Sir Richard, as he inspects Yew Tree Well to make sure it’s clear of moss. “It can get a little stressful, but it’s worth it in the end.” Any money donated by visitors (including coins dropped into the wells) is divided between local charities.

With one well inspection complete, Sir Richard makes his way to the outskirts of the village, where Wendy is adding a few final flourishes to boards for Hands Well. She became a grandmother a few months ago, inspiring her decision to decorate this well with a motif of Moses in the bulrushes. “When my daughter got married, I did a wedding scene,” she says. “It’s nice to do something that has meaning – to me, that’s the whole point of well dressing.” Highly detailed, Wendy’s design features figures using eggshells (for skin), alder cones (for jewellery) and spruce tips and parsley (for the borders). “I’ve had family in the village since the 1500s, so I like to think I’m continuing something they might have taken part in, too.”

A WAY WITH CLAY

Preparations for Tissington’s well dressings begin weeks before. There’s a core of eager volunteers, although new ones are always welcome. In keeping with tradition, they get together to submerge the wooden boards in the village duckpond, where they will stay for up to a week. Meanwhile, they mix clay with salt, and then trample it so that it’s smooth. After removing the boards, they plaster the clay mixture onto them – the wood’s moistness meaning the clay is less likely to crack. Next, while the boards are still damp, they get to work on the initial embellishments, etching the outlines of the design onto the surface. Later, they will add colour and texture with organic materials, from coffee beans to pine cones.

Back on his round, Sir Richard stops off at a former cowshed. Behind the limestone walls, Sue and Jane are admiring their handiwork, a design for Town Well. Their theme is the Ascension – Jesus wears a vivid robe of red flowers. “I can’t wait until it’s up – you’re never quite sure what it’s going to look like until then,” says Sue – who’s already booked time off work to take part next year. “My windows overlook the well and I’ve been known to fling open the curtains in the morning just to take a look at it.” Though many designs feature biblical stories, Sir Richard says you don’t need to be religious to enjoy the event. “For

many, it’s about soaking up the atmosphere and being part of something bigger than you,” he says.

It’s nearing 4pm, which means only a few hours remain before all the well dressings must be hoisted into position ready to be blessed tomorrow. Sir Richard will be joined by the great and good of Derbyshire. “In our modern, fast-moving world, traditions are still relevant,” he says. “I take pride in the fact that people travel from near and far to visit our village. There’s no denying there’s always been something special about Tissington.”