EAT THE Forced SEASONS rhubarb

IN DEEPEST WEST YORKSHIRE, A MYSTERIOUS RITUAL TAKES PLACE EVERY FEBRUARY. IN THE LONG, LOW BARNS OF THE ‘RHUBARB TRIANGLE’ – AN AREA BETWEEN WAKEFIELD, MORLEY AND ROTHWELL – STEMS SHOOT UPWARDS, SEARCHING FOR A LIGHT THAT NEVER SHINES. THIS ‘FORCED’ RHUBARB IS SWEETER, SOFTER AND ROSIER THAN ITS OUTDOOR COUNTERPART, A TREAT WHEN SEASONAL FRUIT IS SCARCE. PILE PINK RHUBARB ON TOP OF A GINGERNUT CHEESECAKE, COVER IN A LATTICED LID FOR A TART OR PAIR WITH PORK CHOPS FOR A HEARTY BAKE.