88 TEMPLE PILGRIMAGE TRAIL, JAPAN
ON SHIKOKU, AN island at the far south west of Japan, below Hiroshima, one of the world’s oldest trails picks its way past the cliff-lined shores of the Pacific through deep, lush valleys to cloud-piercing mountains. The 88 Temple Pilgrimage Trail was created a millennium ago by the followers of Kukai, the monk who founded the Shingon Buddhist sect.
With characteristic Japanese politeness, the trail sells itself short – there are far more than 88 temples as well as hundreds of shrines to see as the route loops in a convenient circle for 1200km before helpfully returning pilgrims to their start point. You’d need a 40-day holiday to hike the entire trail, so most walkers choose to tackle sections at a time, immersing themselves in the soothing balm of rolling countryside and Buddhist temples.
The atmosphere along the trail is mindful and meditative, taking tea with villagers, showing respect to the shrines and temples. Many walkers carry a trail passport, called a nōkyōchō, which someone at each temple will stamp with the temple’s name, and then artfully write the symbols that represent the main deity of the temple using a calligraphy brush.
Organised walking tours leapfrog between the most striking temples and sublime views – don’t miss the forested Iya Valley, where Indiana Jonesstyle vine bridges cross the River Iya; or the twin peaks of Tsurugi-san and neighboring Mount Jirogyu, for far-reaching views over a ridge of dwarf bamboo meadow. The overwhelming experience, however, is of the all-encompassing calm from this otherworldly experience.