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The superstar moments that make people want to do the West Highland Way…

CONIC HILL

At 1184 ft (361m) Conic Hill is no giant, but it’s the first hill encountered on the Way as you head north from Milngavie – and one of the few hills actually climbed by the Way itself (though the summit is a short detour off the trail). And more importantly, it’s the big reveal for Loch Lomond. Suddenly the superloch is splayed out before you, having been hidden from view on the journey so far. And on a clear day you’ll also see as far as Glasgow, the Clyde estuary and even Goat Fell on the Isle of Arran, some 50 miles distant.

LOCH LOMOND

The shoreline of the loch occupies at least two full days of the trail. It has a Marmite reputation, because the lovely lochside views and paddle-spots give way north of Rowardennan to dense woodland, steep slopes and uneven tracks peppered with gnarly tree roots and boulder fields. The trees obscure the view of the loch, meaning that many choose to just get their heads down and yomp on, until the respite of the Inversnaid Hotel and later, the hamlet of Inverarnan.

RANNOCH MOOR

This is the big one. North of Loch Tulla, the Way climbs to Am Monadh Dubh, or the Black Mount, and here you arrive at a 50 square mile expanse of upland bog called Rannoch Moor. All around its circumference, enormous mountains rise to the sky, but for the next eight miles you are on a flat track all the way to Kingshouse, simply gawping at the scale of it all. And every step brings you closer to the Way’s biggest pin-up: the 3000ft pyramid of Stob Dearg, the lead shoulder of Buachaille Etive Mòr, ‘the great shepherd of Glen Etive.’

“On a clear day you’ll see as far as Glasgow, the Clyde estuary and even Goat Fell on the Isle of Arran.”

THE DEVIL’S STAIRCASE

The exit from Rannoch Moor is via this ancient drove road which climbs the south flank of Stob Mhic Mhartuin. There’s a great excuse for taking plenty of pauses: with every step, Buachaille Etive Mòr becomes more impressive behind you, as does the view down Glen Coe, including the famous Three Sisters. The Way then winds through high country before dropping down into Kinlochleven.

GLEN NEVIS

After passing through the empty mountain corridor of Lairig Mòr, the Way emerges into Scotland’s most famous glen – right opposite the great hulk of Ben Nevis. A lot of walkers finish the Way by climbing the Ben itself, but it’s by no means a requirement. Many simply bimble down the glen and make for a cup of tea (or something slightly stronger) at the end of the trail in Fort William. WALK HERE: For a circular taster of this stretch, see Walk 25 in this issue.

WILD PLACES Crossing the great expanse of Rannoch Moor is cited by many as the highlight of the Way.

GREAT LAKE The lower stretches of Loch Lomond are a joy; later it gets a bit fruity.

CALL OF THE GLEN Don’t fancy climbing the Ben? A detour down Glen Nevis to this view of Steall Falls makes a fine alternative.

WOW MOMENT Looking down on Loch Lomond from Conic Hill; the Way’s first big encounter with scenic wonder.

TOP OF THE STAIRS The view back to Buachaille Etive Mòr from the upper shoulder of the Devil’s Staircase.