Beyond the headlines, our national parks have infinite capacity to refresh and restore – as long as you know how to get out of the gravitational field of the really very few saturated hot spots. Which is where we come in...
YR WYDDFA – OR SNOWDON – has to be one of the most irresistible mountains in Britain. It’s exquisitely sculpted, offers routes of astonishing variety and thrills, and its top is the highest land in Wales. No wonder fans flock by the thousand to pay their respects. Yet as anyone who has ever climbed to its jawslackening views knows, it’s only one of a legion of peaks that prickle the skies of this national park. Snowdonia spans 823 glorious square miles and is home to 93 summits over 2000 feet high, a standard benchmark for a mountain in Britain. Here are five of our favourites, for those seeking high adventure away from the crowds.
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Have you heard of the invisible gorilla test? Also called the selective attention test, it shows how you can miss things right under your nose because you’re focussed on something else – in this test it’s someone in a gorilla suit wandering through a group of people playing ball.
In Snowdonia, Yr Aran is that gorilla. It stands toe-totoe with Snowdon, its lower slopes playing footsie with Snowdon’s South Ridge, but with everyone’s eyes trained on the biggest peak nobody seems to see it. And it’s a cracking mountain: 2451 feet high with satisfyingly steep sides and a pointy summit, and just separate enough from Snowdon to feel like its own entity.
Things do start off busy-ish on either the Watkin or Rhyd-Ddu paths for Snowdon (it’s worth noting if you do want to hit that summit, these two routes and Snowdon Ranger are far quieter than the trails up from the east), but then you’ll strike out on a different adventure. No footpaths are marked on the map but you’ll find some on the ground; nothing like Snowdon’s highways but wide enough to guide your steps to superlative views, not least of that glory-hog neighbour next door.
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A hot contender for quietest range in the national park, probably because its Brutalist architecture looks mighty daunting. But for those seeking lonely, wild, challenging, rocky walking, Rhinog Fawr and Rhinog Fach (meaning big and little Rhinog) inspire genuine devotion: these jostles of boulder with their uncertain paths are not a place you easily forget.
Don’t be put off if that sounds a little too rugged. The highest point of the massif is actually Y Llethr (2480 feet) and it’s a very different beast. Approach from the south-west, skirting high above Llyn Bodlyn and over Diffwys, and it’s mostly plump grassy climbing to reach its summit. Not all though – there are some fun airy strides to be had across the ridge of Crib-y-rhiw. From the top you can see how fast the turf turns to rock as the slope drops to Llyn Hywel, before fracturing up again to the Rhinog siblings. And it wasn’t always so quiet out here: your outward route by the packhorse bridge of Pont Scethin tracks the route of an old drove road which would once have been a din of animals and men shouting heiptro ho! to herd them to market.
“But for those seeking lonely, rocky walking, Rhinog Fawr and Rhinog Fach
” inspire
Find free route guides to Rhinog Y Llethr at
tThe grassy view back as you climb Y Llethr; the wall runs along the ridge for seven miles, all the way to Barmouth. snowdonia.gov. wales/authority/ coronavirus/carpark-vacancies
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Look at a map of Snowdonia and you’ll see that, just like a Polo mint, it has a hole in the middle. The slate town of Blaenau Ffestiniog was excluded from the national park because the quarries that ‘roofed the world’ were deemed too ugly, and through association the surrounding hills have never drawn the same adoring crowds as other peaks in the park. Take Moelwyn Mawr, the town’s highest satellite at 2526 feet. Its lower slopes are cut by quarries and grey pyramids of spoil (which arguably have their own particular industrial beauty), but it’s also been expertly chiselled by ice. Look up as you climb and the lines can be as striking as Snowdon, its crag as thrillingly foreboding, while down below, the corrie is a-shimmer with the waters of Llyn Stwlan. The narrow arête of Craigysgafn provides a fun, scrambly link to its shorter neighbour of Moelwyn Bach, and for a full day of Alpine adventure you can loop over Cnicht to the west too, also known as the Welsh Matterhorn for its distinctive profile.
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If you’re dead set on climbing a peak called Snowdon, then there is a quieter one – way down south on Devon’s
at grid ref SX668683. Its 1624-foot summit is a lot lower than the Welsh one and its rounded contours less flamboyant, but the views across Dartmoor are big – and empty.
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The 26-mile Y3P route over Pen-y-ghent, Ingleborough (right), and Whernside is a classic challenge walk that often teems with fundraising walkers, but now’s your chance to spread out the maps and replace the Yorkshire Three Peaks, with your own Yorkshire Three Peaks. Which will you go for? We love the look of Wharfedale’s Three Peaks – that’s 22 miles over Birks Fell, Buckden Pike and Great Whernside.
Or for something really wild, head to the north west of the national park and the Calf in the Howgills, Baugh Fell and Wild Boar Fell. We plot that as 26 miles-ish of tough and often trackless upland adventure (although it might need renaming as they’re all in Cumbria, despite being in the Yorkshire Dales National Park). And if you’re looking for one-to-one switches, we think Addlebrough has a table-top profile to rival Ingleborough; Gragareth (Lancashire’s county top, but in the YDNP) makes a good swap for Whernside (Yorkshire’s top); and Wild Boar Fell has a striking outline a bit like Pen-y-ghent.
Find routes for Addlebrough, Gragareth Wild Boar Fell at
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Love for its glorious scenery, and its cheese, makes Wensleydale a busy place but all it takes to find peace is a turn off the A684. Carved by tributaries to the River Ure, a series of smaller valleys branch out from the main U-sweep of Wensleydale – Widdale, Sleddale, Raydale, Bishopdale, Waldendale, Coverdale – and served by narrow lanes or at most a B-road, they’re a lot quieter. You can link the last two on a fine walk from Carlton, tracking west over a pass between Harland Hill and the Heights of Hazely, then down for a spell walking south by Walden Beck. The return climbs back east through the mining ruins of Fleensop Moor, before descending to Horsehouse for the final leg by the River Cover. Expect classic Dales views of valley floors chequered by dry-stone walls rising to windswept uplands – but none of the crowds.
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The deserted limestone pavement of Moughton Scars gives superstar Malham (left) a run for its money.
Chris & Allie Hodgson, Haven Cottage B&B, Ambleside “Dunnerdale is one of our favourite horseshoe walks – it really has an ‘away from it’ feel and you’ve even got the choice of two great Lakeland pubs too. Park at Kiln Bank Cross (SD215933) before climbing the impressive looking Stickle Pike (not to be confused with Pike o’ Stickle in Great Langdale) and continuing on a circuit of Great Stickle before dropping down and then climbing The Knott and Raven’s Crag. You can then treat yourself by dropping down to The Blacksmiths Arms in Broughton Mills or the Newfield Inn at Seathwaite.
Alternatively, if the weather has been dry venture above one of the plentiful parking spots alongside the western shore of Thirlmere to get away from the crowds. We usually choose Armboth car park (NY305172). Accessible peaks with great 360º views make this a fine area for quiet Wainwright bagging with Armboth Fell, High Tove, High Seat and Bleaberry Fell all within close range. A fine finish to this walk is then a short steep climb up to Raven Crag where you get a wonderful view down the length of Thirlmere. You might even get lucky and see one of the peregrine falcons that nest on the crag from the viewpoint at the top.”
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Paul Rose,
TV Presenter and Explorer
“You just can’t go wrong with this one: it’s never busy, there is an immediate sense of space and wild places, the views are terrific, and if the weather is rough then it’s still worth doing because, if you’re lucky, you can smell the sea during the walk and dry out at the excellent Miners Arms pub in Silecroft afterwards. If you want to get a feel of the sea before heading up, then walk it clockwise starting at Kirkbank and head northwest to Whitbeck. Cross the road and head to the shore at Gutterby Spa and enjoy a mile-long beach walk north to Annaside. Go west, cross the A595 and re-join the footpath heading north through Holegill and Far End. Then it’s a steady climb heading southeast to the top and a romp straight down heading south to the pub. A perfect Lakes day!”
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LIKE SNOWDONIA, THE highest point in this national park is one very popular place to walk. It’s hard to imagine a more elegant mountain than Pen y Fan (2907 feet), and its twin peak of Corn Du. The old red sandstone falls in sharp-cut swoops from flat-top summits and all the curves are clad with velvet turf. The duo is a landmark for miles, but they’re not the only beautiful peaks here.
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Gazing at a gorgeous mountain can be just as inspiring as standing on it and Fan Frynych, 2064 feet up, offers one of the finest angles on Pen y Fan and Corn Du. You can see both peaks clearly, (pictured right), the parabola curve of the ridgelines leading to them, and the precipitous northern cliffs – and despite standing just across the valley from the famous pair you won’t have to queue for
COUNTRY WALKING a summit pic on this one. It also has its own spectacular cwm where ice scooped out the great bowl of Creig Cerrig-gleisiad. You’ll find this whole Fforest Fawr area between the A470 in the east and the A4067 in the west is little trodden – Fan Fawr, Fan Llia, Fan Nedd, and Fan Gyhirych are all empty tops with big views.
See Walk 21 in this issue
MORE INFORMATION
Click on breconbeacons.org or call the National Park Visitor Centre on 01874 623366.
HEAD NORTH THROUGH Scotland and the first Munro (Scottish peak over 3000 feet) you’ll hit will be Ben Lomond. It’s also one of the friendliest – not only in terms of the number of other walkers, but in its terrain. The main path from Rowardennan is a straightforward haul with nothing too gnarly between you and a pyramid summit with a vast view over Loch Lomond and its islands. If you can resist its magnetic pull though, you’ll discover a wealth of spectacular, and quieter, walks. We asked the experts at Cicerone guidebooks to share their favourites... summits, and a steep descent from the final peak to return to Benmore Gardens. 12½ miles total.
DESPITE PEMBROKESHIRE’S RISING popularity as a seaside destination, there remains a treasure-chest of quieter routes, says Dennis Kelsall, CW route writer and author of Pembrokeshire guidebooks published by Cicerone and Northern Eye.
The village of Dale lays claim to Wales’ sunniest beach and is understandably popular. However, take the lane towards Dale Fort and onto the Wales Coast Path and you’ll pass three often deserted bays, of which Mill Bay is famous as Henry Tudor’s landing place before defeating Richard III at Bosworth. Carry on past St Ann’s Head lighthouse to Westdale Bay, another delightful beach, from which the last leg of this seven-mile loop goes past St James’ Church to the village.
For a 14-mile leg-stretcher in the north of the national park, start from Strumble Head and follow the eastern cliffs above endless coves where seals often congregate (Porthsychan is the only one with an accessible beach). Carreg Goffa has a monument to a short-lived French invasion, while Pen Anglas has curious pentagonal dolerite columns; a Giant’s Causeway in miniature. At Harbour Village, seek out burial chambers behind the houses on the right before picking your way via Llanwnda to Trenewydd. Take to the fields past Lady’s Gate and climb over Garn Fechan and Garn Fawr, both commanding viewpoints topped with a fort. Finally, drop past Pwll Deri youth hostel (pictured below) to follow the Coast Path back to Strumble.
Carningli is an endearing hill steeped in history both real and imagined. It rises behind Newport’s sandy estuary but first, go upstream to Pen-y-Bont, where an impressive burial chamber lies near the lane. Wind south through town to find a path onto the ‘Hill of Angels’, up to its striking summit and hill-fort. Go west over the heathery common before leaving past Cainedd Fychan and Carn Ffoi, to navigate paths via Holm House into Cwm Rhigian and the coast. Linger on the shingle-backed beach before the final cliff-top stretch of this 7½ mile route, where an ebbing tide reveals wave-cut platforms beneath a series of inaccessible coves.
Or for something different, try the upper reaches of the Daugleddau Estuary. A lovely 8½-mile walk begins from Cresswell Quay where, at low tide, you can cross the stream to a path below Scotland Wood and on above the Cresswell River. Meeting a lane by Lawrenny, head out to its quay from which a glorious oak-wood path wanders with the main river to Garron Pill, (pictured above) and back along lanes.
MORE INFORMATION
See pembrokeshirecoast.wales or call the Oriel y Parc visitor centre in St Davids on 01437 720392 .
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REACHING INTO FIVE counties, surrounded by enormous conurbations and accessible to more people than any other national park, the Peak District is easily discounted as overly-popular and underlywild. In fact beyond its most-famous star turns it’s more varied and more abundant in opportunities for escape than our prejudices might have us believe. Try some of our swapsies to see what we mean...
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There’s no denying the star quality of Dove Dale, whose famous features are laid out with film-set convenience – but it’s always busy and there’s something desultory about a there-and-back walk. For a more satisfying circular adventure through twin ravines – complete with paddling opportunities, stepping stones and surprising rock formations – try Wolfscote Dale (above) and Biggin Dale. A six-mile circular from Hartington via first Beresford Dale, then Wolfscote and back via Biggin Dale enjoys just a fraction of the visitors and will feel like your own, stunning discovery.
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Trails using former railway lines attract more than half a million walkers a year to the Peak and its famous viaduct means the 8½-mile Monsal Trail is by far the most popular of these beautiful (and flat) routes. It lacks a former railway, but Lathkill Dale (below) to the south has its rivals licked for quiet beauty, dramatic limestone cliffs and the clear blue waters of its eponymous river. The Lathkill has a party trick too – it starts in different places depending on the season. In winter the river spurts forth from a cave at the head of the valley; in summer it starts with springs further down. Leaky former lead mines rob the river of some of its flow, but mean it’s always a gentle presence as it eases over a series of 11 weirs to the pretty village of Alport. Walk this White Peak jewel as the middle portion of a 10-mile loop from Youlgreave and you’ll wonder how any other could be anyone’s favourite.
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For the full High Peak experience you want three things – dramatic gritstone outcrops, roof-of-the-world heather moorland and glorious isolation. Kinder Scout often scores poorly on the third, particularly from the Edale side. Try Back Tor instead – two miles to the east, high above Derwent Reservoir, and blessed with a sense of occasion Kinder Scout can’t match. Where the ascent of Kinder peters out in ‘Are we there yet?’ debates, Back Tor lofts its trig point atop an extraordinary, Dartmoor-ish citadel of gritstone. Its neighbour Lost Lad offers some of the biggest views in the whole national park, and the nearness of Ladybower Reservoir provides constant interest and the promise of an ice cream.
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Dove Dale’s alp is a favourite first ‘mountain’ for families because kids are wise to parental disingenuousness – but Thorpe Cloud matches its billing perfectly. Spectacular Robin Hood’s Stride makes similarly good on the promise of an Explore. There are rocks to scramble, trees to climb, a hermit’s cave to find, 150-year-old carved graffiti and it even featured in the Best Film Ever, The Princess Bride. You can spend hours exploring this open-access gem – and it’s fertile ground in which to plant plans for future adventures.