‘It’s more than a walking trail’
Trail manager Heather Procter on the enduring power of the Pennine Way.
There something about the Pennine Way that grabs your heart, mind and soul, and doesn’t let go! I think it’s a combination of the remoteness and solitude, which gives you time to think, the beauty and inspiration that’s gained from the landscape and wildlife, and the genuine friendship shown by others walking the trail, and the welcome given by locals. If I’m feeling stressed, worried or fed up a walk on the Pennine Way will always sort it out. It’s more than just a walking trail. It’s therapy for the soul – a place where lifelong memories are made.
It has something to offer you at any stage of life. Many people go back again and again at different ages, and refresh their bond with the trail. It’s popular with people from the Netherlands,
Germany, USA,
Canada and
Australia.
There are so many highs and the lows are predictable. The weather, the mud and the occasional mishap with route finding. We can’t do anything about the weather, but the ground conditions are much better than they used to be, and we always try to fix persistent problems. In summer I walk a lot of the trail in order to assess its condition of it. But I also cover the Pennine Bridleway, so we now have a team of 6 people who carry out a full condition survey of both trails each year. I manage the maintenance budget, help prioritise where to spend the money, and then work with the Rangers to ensure works are completed.
You can walk the trail in either direction. South to North is the most common and has its advantages – the final leg through the Cheviots is a really immense way to finish such a long walk. You’ll also be more likely to join up with other walkers going the same way, which is great if you like company and moral support. Walking north to south means you get one of the most physically challenging sections out of the way first, and is better if you prefer solitude. Spring is great for birdlife, and we’ve had scorching hot sun some years and snow and blizzards in others. Summer is great for flowers and insects, and the weather should be more reliable. I like Autumn. There’s something about the autumn colours, the quality of the light, and the general calmness of nature that appeals to me.
Everyone has a war story. One time my husband was helping me with a condition survey, and we’d parked a car at each end of the section. It wasn’t until we reached the car at the other end and I asked him for the keys he realised he’d put them in the glove box of the first car. After checking bus timetables we decided it would be quicker to walk back.
Wainwright famously said ‘I won’t be back’ but a lot has changed. Some of the bogs have been very successfully restored (like Black Hill, Bleaklow and Kinder Scout), and the erosion has been stopped by the placement of stone flags. The bleak, black, soggy, mess has been replaced by a verdant, animated, beautiful scene, with a lovely well defined dry(ish) path through.
If I had to pick three favourite days...
1. Airton to Fountains Fell. I have lots of happy memories from family visits to Malham and the surroundings, and field visits as a student to Malham Tarn. I love the landscape, the ecology, and the views.
2. Low Force to Dufton. There are such contrasts along this section, from the easy walking along the river valley up onto the top of the moors and down again. So many massive scenic highlights, including Low Force, High Force, Falcon Clints, Cauldron Snout, and High Cup. I also really like Middleton-in-Teesdale and Dufton as places to stay.
“It has something to offer you at any stage of life. Many people go back again and again… and refresh their bond with the trail.”
3. Hebden Bridge to The White House (past Stoodley Pike). I really like the Calder Valley – it’s steep and wooded with beautiful rivers and waterfalls and it contrasts with the moorlands and reservoirs on the windswept hills either side. Great views, lovely picnic spots, and all sorts of insights into the history of the trail and surrounding areas.