The Hollow Mountain
Susie Kearley goes underground to explore an astonishing subterranean power station and then emerges topside for a walk to the reservoir that feeds it
Cruachan, Argyll
Deep inside a Scottish mountain, a triumph of British engineering lies hidden, the peace and beauty above belying the noise and heat of the huge machines at work below.
This is Cruachan Power Station, on the shores of Loch Awe, where an enormous Machine Hall houses pumping cylinders that convert water from the reservoir above into renewable electricity.
The sheer scale of Cruachan is astonishing, and it is very much worth taking a tour of the station to visit the soaring main cavern. Buried one kilometre below ground and large enough to comfortably fit the Tower of London inside it, the cavern is home to four massive yellow cylinders, which produce electricity and pump unusued water back up to the reservoir.
The power station’s vast size isn’t the only awe-inspiring thing about it. Cruachan offers a hopeful model for the future, too. Built between 1959-1965, the hydro-electric power station was designed by pioneering engineer Sir Edward MacColl, and is far more flexible and efficient than nuclear or coal-fired power stations. Here, there’s a real focus on exploring different approaches to energy production in the face of climate change.
Things haven’t always been so rosy, though – when the station was constructed, 1,500 men were tasked with digging the space out entirely by hand – 15 of them lost their lives in the process. MacColl also died before its completion.
OUT IN THE OPEN
The power station’s noisy belly contrasts with the wonderful tranquility above ground. After a tour of the station, this walk will take you up to the reservoir and dam, sat in the shadow of Ben Cruachan, the highest mountain in Argyll and Bute at 1,126m. Standing here, it’s difficult to picture the rumblings and roarings deep beneath you.
1 THE ROAD TAKEN
Two parallel paths run up on either side of the Falls of Cruachan from the entrance to the power station. Take the western route to the left – it starts off tarred and then becomes a track, crossing the railway and continuing uphill with views over Loch Awe.
2 RISING DAM
Continue on the small path to a track below the Cruachan dam. Turn left up to the base of the dam and look for the iron steps that lead you on to the top of the dam.
3 MOUNTAIN’S SHADOW
From here you look across the reservoir and up to the bulk of Ben Cruachan. Walk along the edge of a reservoir to find a track leading down to a junction and keep right.
4 ROAD HOME
At this point you can retake the path you followed up, or aim for a ladder stile that leads to a path down the other side of the Falls of Cruachan. It crosses grassy slopes and cuts through the wood. Just above the railway, it turns to the left and then passes under the line and back to the A85.