Mighty Aphrodite
MARION McMULLEN FOLLOWS IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE GODDESS OF LOVE ON THE MAGICAL ISLAND OF CYPRUS
IT’S a boast that any cosmetics company in the world would love to be able to promote in their commercials... a natural way to look 10 years younger in an instant.
Of course, there is a catch. First you have to fly to Cyprus and head to the baths of love goddess Aphrodite and then you have to swim around the pool three times totally starkers. Oh, and all this has to be done by the light of a full moon.
Not surprising the locals do not take kindly to visitors skinny dipping at their famous landmark, but it is still worth a trip to see the beautiful Baths of Aphrodite near the fishing village of Latchi.
It is part of a stunning national park and you can happily spend hours walking along the trails and enjoying the scenery and beautiful views of the coast.
The baths themselves lie in a secluded grotto surrounded by fig trees, which I suppose must have been a big help in the past if you’d misplaced your clothes after a dip and were in need of a handy leaf.
It’s a peaceful spot and it is tempting to believe the old legends that the waters do indeed hold the ancient world’s answer to Botox and offer the secret to eternal youth. But just enjoying the tranquillity of the shrine of the love goddess seems to work a special kind of magic. I was returning from my pilgrimage to Aphrodite’s baths with my group when a coach party walked by and one woman looking pointedly in our direction before loudly informing her fellow travellers: “Well, they do look younger.”
Cyprus, of course, has long been a favourite with British holidaymakers and the countries have a lot in common. We both drive on the same side of the road for a start and use the same power sockets so you don’t need to pack travel adaptors.
English is also widely spoken and the islanders are big football fans who seem to divide their support between Liverpool and Manchester City and United.
The island itself basks in sunshine and boasts incredible views from the famous sea caves to the fort at Pafos Harbour. The locals still joke about an amorous couple who parked their blue Jeep on the cliff facing the caves and ended up falling off the edge into the waters below when they accidently knocked the brake off in their passionate ardour. Maybe Aphrodite, known to the Romans as Venus, was looking out for them because luckily both survived the fall.
Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean and attracts more than two million visitors a year. It is famed for its hospitality and boasts 10,000 years of history. New sections of the massive complex of catacombs that form the Tombs Of The Kings are still being uncovered and reveal an underground world carved into the very rock.
The mosaics at Paphos Archaeological Park are equally impressive and the site is also slowly giving up its secrets.
There is a depiction of Greek god Dionysus giving the gift of wine to man followed by a mosaic of two men looking a little hung over with the Greek inscription declaring “The first wine drinkers.”
To enjoy a drop of the local wine yourself, you can head to the mountains and the award-winning organic wines of Tsangarides Winery. They have been producing it here for four generations and managing director Angelos is passionate about his family’s heritage for great wine, but warns of over-indulging on local brandy zivania. A first distillation can be 43% proof and Angelos warns “It will make your blind.”
Some of the local women do stock up on the local tipple ... and
use it to clean their windows.
If you like living dangerously than a jeep safari around the national park area of Akamas will blow away the cobwebs – think dirt tracks with impressive potholes to avoid – to Lara Bay, also known as turtle bay. The green turtles come to lay their eggs there, but were facing extinction a few years ago until local conservationists stepped in to help protect the nests. Numbers are now up again and the turtles are certainly big travellers. They often head off to Miami after their Cyprus visit.
I stayed at the St George Hotel which offered a great base to explore the island and sample the local food and then unwind at night in the bar.
Restaurant Koutourou at Panos boasts wall-to-wall bric-a-brac with everything from old typewriters to tottering piles of old celebrity recipe books. It also serves up some of the best vegetarian food I’ve eaten in my life. In fact, it was so good the meat lovers on the table tried to scoff the lot.
If you are looking for a more traditional ambience, then the Halamanduro Tavern offers live music and the chance to channel your inner Zorba the Greek and join in some local dancing. Paper napkins are thrown to the floor now instead of plates, but you get the picture.
Some of the traditional agro houses are also available for rent during the summer and offer a peaceful getaway.
But, for a true taste of Cyprus, it’s worth visiting Sophia’s House. The cheerful granny cooks bread and the local halloumi cheese using recipes handed down to her by her own mother.
She even whips up the fresh cheese to order for anyone who wants to take some back with them and happily poses for photos with her satisfied customers. Just remember don’t say “cheese” for the camera, say halloumi.