High society
EMMA DEADMAN visits Ecuador’s capital city, Quito, some 3,000m above sea level in the foothills of the Andes
HEARD the joke about balancing an egg on a nail? No? That’s because it’s no joke. As long as you’re standing on the Earth’s equator, it’s entirely possible. In fact, there are a few things that are either only possible – or indeed impossible – on the equator at The Intiñan Museum, in Quito, Ecuador.
Walking, eyes closed, one foot in front of the other in a straight line is ridiculously challenging due to the gravitational pull of the two hemispheres.
And a full washbasin is used to demonstrate the way that draining water swirls in a particular direction in each hemisphere, then straight down the plughole due to The Coriolis Effect.
The quirky attraction is a fun place in which to spend a couple of hours.
High in the foothills of the Andes, at almost 3,000m above sea level, Quito is a capital city like no other, squeezed in a long line between rocky mountain peaks. The city’s crown jewel is its Old Town – old mixes with new; young mixes with old; traditional mixes with modern.
Take the Basílica del Voto Nacional, for example. As Ecuador’s largest neo-Gothic cathedral, you’d expect the gargoyles adorning the outside to be classical. Instead, they’re inspired by animals endemic to Ecuador, such as tortoises, iguanas and armadillos.
Quito loves its religious buildings, and for sheer bling, the Church of la Compañía de Jesús wins hands down. The intricate gold leafencrusted interior makes it one of the best-known churches in the city.
Delicate handiwork like this is something the Ecuadorians are rightly proud of. From stone carvings, to the milliners who make Panama hats (despite their name, they originated in Ecuador), many traditional trades live on here.
In the La Ronda district, doorways open up into pretty courtyards which are home to shops, galleries and museums. Craftsmen will stop work to talk about their trade, after which you can head to Dulce Placer Heladeria for one of their delicious ice creams.
After lunch at Casa Los Geranios, we took to the streets and headed to the Metropolitan Cathedral of Quito, just off the Plaza Grande. A tiny hidden door led us through a tunnel inside the cathedral’s walls, and we emerged high above the rooftops.
The view over the Plaza Grande was unrivalled, and with the cathedral to the south, the Presidential Palace to the west, the Archiepiscopal Palace to the north and City Hall to the east, being so high above the Great Square is a great place to people watch.
But for even better sweeping views over the entire city, jump onboard the dizzying Teleférico cable car. A 20-minute drive from the old town, the ride takes passengers on a 2.5km 10-minute journey up, up and away into the clouds. Have a go on the swing at the top and feel liberated as you ‘fly’!
For a ride of an altogether different kind, we were lucky enough to board a special ‘family party train’ from Chimbacalle Station. The round trip was a special event celebrating the Foundation of Quito Day, and involved copious amounts of food and drink, and good company.
There’s so much to see in such a compact area in this UNESCOlisted city that it’s worth booking a hotel in the heart of the action.
With just 12 rooms, the boutique Hotel Carlota, in Quito’s historic district, is large enough to cater for all your needs, but small enough to make you feel at home.
Each room is named after a native Ecuadorian bird, and each is individually decorated with exposed brickwork, huge lofty ceilings and bright designs.
But the highlight of the hotel is its roof terrace. The 360-degree view allows you to soak in the vibe – even more so at night when the illuminated Virgin of Quito looms over the city.
You only fully understand the Virgin’s size when you’re standing beneath the impressive aluminium structure, located on top of the hill of El Panecillo, which separates the north from the south side.
Lit up at night in the colours of the Ecuadorian flag, it’s hard to miss.