Whistler top tour
With pristine snow and blues skies, British Columbia has all you need for a perfect skiing trip, says CLAIRE HEWITT
THERE are a few things that really make a great skiing holiday. One is hired ski boots that are close to comfortable. Another is a perfectly positioned slopeside hotel, avoiding that exhausting trek back, lugging gear designed for gliding down a mountain.
But best of all is fresh powder which is in the hands of Mother Nature. And she was clearly in a good mood the day we arrived in Canadian ski resort Whistler because she had laid on an overnight fall of nearly 2ft of new snow.
At more than 6,562ft high, the Whistler and Blackcomb mountains that form this British Columbia ski destination get plenty of fresh powder but not usually in April. The locals were overjoyed.
I have skied in fresh powder before but this was on another level. The nerves kicked in and at first I didn’t know how to handle it. I actually felt like a beginner again.
Thankfully, I had ski guide Peter from Extremely Canadian to, metaphorically, hold my hand. With patient explanation, he helped me adapt my style to the conditions and reminded me that I actually do know how to ski. We made our way down Jersey Cream Road, a green run and by the end my confidence had returned.
Extremely Canadian is a ski school with a difference. It’s all about adventurous big mountain skiing and teaches pupils how to attack some of the highest and steepest areas of Whistler’s twin peaks.
As we moved on to the Green Line, a run twisting and turning through snow-covered trees, I remembered how much I enjoy spending time in the mountains. I even managed a few carving turns, so I was content to make my way down to a late lunch at the GLC (Garibaldi Lift Company), one of Whistler’s favourite après-ski options, where I ate a chicken burger of epic proportions with waffle fries.
Whistler’s accommodation is arranged in three villages, Whistler Creek and Upper and Lower Whistler. My hotel, the Westin Resort & Spa, was in the lower village – an easy walk to the gondolas – so I was able to roll out of bed, pick up equipment from the onsite CAN-SKI hire shop and be ready when the lifts opened.
I was especially grateful for that when we had some glorious “bluebird days”, when the sun shines in a clear blue sky and the “hero snow” (fresh powder) combine to make perfect conditions.
Long, long before the first ski runs were carved into the mountains here, this was home to the Squamish and Lil’wat people, who still trade and live in the area. At the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre you can learn about their cultures, history and legends. Ambassadors from each of these two First Nations – as the Canadians call them – are on hand to share more about their experiences.
Back on the slopes, it was time to enjoy Whistler Mountain, which, together with Blackcomb, has more than 200 runs, three glaciers and 16 alpine bowls.
After all that exercise, it was time for lunch at Christine’s, accompanied by amazing mountain views and a Caesar – a Canadian cocktail similar to a Bloody Mary but with more spice, clam juice and overthe-top accompaniments ranging from sausage, to peppers, to bacon.
After a long day on the slopes, the resort’s outdoor spa, set in the snowy, forested landscape, proved the perfect retreat while I decided which of Whistler’s wide range of après and dinner options I should visit for my last-night treat, opting for Bearfoot Bistro’s tasting menu with wine pairing. I ended the night bundled into a super-warm jacket to try out the Ketel One Vodka ice room. At minus 29C it’s on the chilly side, but apparently that makes the vodka much smoother to drink. I tried four, with the locally distilled Montis North coming out top.
I took a bottle of their Alpine Gin home with me so every time I relax with a glass, I am transported back to the snowy slopes, skiing in the fresh mountain air.