Urban adventure in Denmark
If you’re looking for a sedate city break, then Copenhagen isn’t the place for you, says
EATS AND DRINKS
Vesterbro, with its proliferation of bars and eateries, had so much to offer that it made sense to remain local the first evening. One of the indicators of the modern urban metropolis is the adoption of the American burger. I confess to having much experience of the burger in its birth country, so when I saw the sprawling Vesterbros Originale Burgerrestaurant, (vb-burgers.dk) it seemed only right to try one.
This cavernous place features long, shared wooden tables and distressed metal chairs set against exposedbrick walls, dotted with red-leather banquettes. Exotic combinations include avocado, bell pepper and tzatziki. The less-adventurous will love the traditional burger topped with bacon and cheddar.
Vesterbro’s trendy Meatpacking district with its outdoor and inside seating is ideal for a summer evening drink so it seemed rude not to indulge in a bit of bar-crawling.
However, Copenhagen seems to lag in the smoking rules stakes with many pubs practically full of smoke, so try to choose an alfresco bar.
ACTIVE COPENHAGEN
The Danes are not a race to idly let life pass them by so there’s plenty of active touring options to try on a short break.
Not exactly ideal for traditional lap swimmers, but the DGI-byen (dgi-byen.dk) sport and leisure centre is home to an intriguing circular swimming pool, called a superellipse.
It’s worth visiting just to experience the sensation of swimming around in circles like a goldfish, as it’s 110 yards in circumference.
Copenhagen is one of Europe’s most bike-friendly cities. See it as the locals do, on a GoBike (bycyklen.dk). These stylish white bikes not only offer the traditional pedalling option, you can choose the electric option on the control panel which even includes a satnav to help you get around the city.
The warm, light summer evenings are the best time to take a canal boat tour. Start at Gammel Strand for the hour’s sail where you’ll glide by Copenhagen’s dramatic, modern Opera House which sits out over the water, on Holmen Island; the grand Amalienborg Palace, home to the royal family and even the Little Mermaid; the much loved statue of a little girl sitting on a rock, in the Tivoli Gardens.
HAPPENING DISTRICTS
Papiroen or Paper Island, once a disused industrial site, is now one of Copenhagen’s most popular areas. In the heart of the harbour, next to the Opera House, the grey industrial buildings, once used as paper storage, house pop-up food and drinks trucks featuring dishes from all over the world.
Danish paper Politiken voted DØP (the hot dog stand) to be their favourite Copenhagen eatery. Try one. They are totally organic and varieties include wild garlic, goat sausage with bacon and rosemary.
HEAD TO THE SEASIDE
Just 30 minutes by train from the city is the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (louisiana.dk).
The Danish modernist building sits in its natural surroundings overlooking Øresund Sound.
Glass corridors and vast pavilions house an impressive collection. There’s also a sculpture garden within the grounds.
WHERE TO STAY
The Absalon Hotel (dialling from the UK: 00 45 33 31 43 44/ absalon-hotel.dk) is less than a five-minute walk from the station in the hip area of Vesterbro. The hotel literature boasts their redecoration in 2015 with the British, Designers Guild furnishings – hot pinks, lime greens and black.
It seemed an odd choice for a smart hotel in one of the world’s design capitals but, then again, I suppose the décor did stand out and somehow suited the large groups of retired Americans who populated the hotel. Doubles from £137 (two sharing), B&B.