Afternoon tea and sundowner sightings

along sandy roads below and spot the larger animals. It is easy to see why Sam Branson, son of Richard, chose to have his wedding here, with its Drakensberg mountains backdrop. That said, I preferred to be at ground level although the best option is to split your stay between the two. We stayed long enough to enjoy that great British/ African tradition – afternoon tea. However, it is getting late and guide Ryan is becoming anxious. There is big game to be found and so with reluctance – and trepidation – we pile into the open-air Jeep and crawl down the precipitous driveway to ground level.

Tracker Morris defies gravity (and logic), taking up a rather precarious and vulnerable position on a single seat jutting out over the bonnet. He clearly has done this before. We head out, bumping over dirt roads with the wind in our hair, joining Morris in the search for anything that moves.

Suddenly his arm shoots up, motioning for us to be quiet. A swooshing of leaves indicates elephants are near and as we sit, holding our breath, two adults and a youngster lope through the undergrowth, taking down branches in their wake. It is as if they’re as curious as we are.

Truth be told they are oblivious to our presence, despite us feeling convinced otherwise. Minutes later, stopping us in our path are three grazing buffalo, their horns looking like judges’ wigs. Ryan believes they have an unfortunate menacing look that says, “You owe me money”. He is not wrong.

So prolific is the game at Sabi Sands that animals are never far away. But it is not just about spotting them. We also glean some fascinating information, such as the fact giraffes give birth standing up so when the baby hits the ground it’s the equivalent of smacking a baby’s bottom. And when we confront a herd of zebra, we understand why it is difficult for predators to see them, as no two are the same – their distinctive stripes forming a dazzle effect.

Did you know a group of Zebra are known as a dazzle?

There is always a risk of poachers in Africa yet thankfully Sabi Sands is protected enough to deter them – although the rhino is a constant trophy target. Over the crackle of the radio we hear from another guide rhino have been spotted nearby. Behaviour is all gentlemanly on safari. Guides share their sightings so everyone, whatever lodge you stay in, can enjoy a piece of the action.

We pull up at a muddy waterhole with the setting sun casting a golden glow. A gigantic lurching female and her calf – merely a year old – are checking into what looks like a rhino spa mud bath. We suppress our giggles as they roll about and groan in delight in between passing wind, while the calf attempts to imitate mum, pushing logs with her trunk and tumbling in the process.

Sunset heralds the time for another African institution; the sundowner. We stop for G&Ts on the edge of the shallow Sand river, where heavily wooded banks reach down to the water’s edge taking in the velvety light when we get “the call”. We quickly stow the mobile booze cupboard and head out into the darkness. There, sitting in all his regal splendour is a magnificent male lion. We’re mere feet away as he begins to roar. A slow, guttural, window-rattling roar. He is, we’re told, pining for his brother and not interested in us, but he’s staring straight into my eyes. We whip out