Drink in the Loire charm
riverboat Loire Princesse, a customdesigned, 96-passenger paddle steamer whose lightweight hull and shallow draft enables it to explore the river which is unnavigable by deeper, heavier craft.
Moored at Ponton Belem, just across a bridge from Île de Nantes, this 2015-launched riverboat could, in its way, be as important to Nantes’ prosperity as the Les Machines project, re-establishing the city as gateway to the spectacular chateaux, medieval villages and verdant vineyards of the Loire Valley, and offering a range of six and eight-day sailings along the river.
I opted for a six-day run and was impressed at how much we managed to fit in. Highlights included a call at Angers, the ancient capital of the Anjou province and home to the vast and still-vivid Apocalypse Tapestry, which dates from the 14th century, depicts scenes from the Bible’s Book Of Revelations and is every bit as impressive the more famous Bayeux.
In the medieval village of Clisson, famous for its 13th-century castle, 12th-century church and ancient oak-canopied marketplace, we enjoyed a sunny riverside walk past an ancient water mill before tasting a variety of local Muscadet wines.
But perhaps the most memorable event was a full-day tour of three spectacular Loire chateaux. Château d’Azay-le-Rideau, which occupies its own island in the Indre River, was our first stop; then we enjoyed a splendid French lunch before exploring the vast Italianate gardens of Château de Villandry. We ended our tour at Château d’Ussé, a beautiful 15th-century castle which – with its white “witch’s hat” turrets – is said to have inspired Charles Perrault’s story of The Sleeping Beauty. It was a tiring but enjoyable day, and by far the longest tour of the trip. Which was a good thing as the greatest pleasure of this cruise was having plenty of time to gaze out of my cabin’s floor-to-ceiling windows – or sit out on its balcony – and watch the Loire’s sandy banks roll by.
The boat’s dining room offered more pleasures, not least the company of four friendly Philadelphians whose table I shared. They made meal times convivial, while the French chef ensured we were well stoked with delicious cream soups, substantial roasts and French classics such as crêpes suzette, washed down with generous splashes of wine (which along with most bar drinks and coffees, was included in the cruise price).
After dinner, passengers gathered in the boat’s main lounge for drinks and laughs with the enthusiastic young crew, who proved adept at bridging language barriers with a very funny show and lots of entertainment based on picture or music quizzes.
Any quibbles? I could find none. The other passengers felt that, with drinks and the Three Chateaux tour included, and other shore excursions priced at an affordable 40-50 per person, the cruise offered pretty good value for money.
THE KNOWLEDGE
Ponders Travel (01954 232802/ ponderstravel.co.uk) offers a six-night cruise from £1,166 (two sharing), full board. Price includes return flights from Luton to Nantes; transfers, two nights in Nantes, B&B. (Departs October 29, 2018). Nantes tourism: (dialling from the UK: +33 272 640 479/nantes-tourisme. com)