Why it’s time we said goodbye to the hemline rules
Too big for a mini? Too short for maxi? Nonsense, says stylist RIVKIE BAUM
LAST week Italian designer Giorgio Armani said: “Even if the trend is to wear a miniskirt, if you have thicker thighs don’t wear one.” There’s no doubt that as one of the world’s most successful fashion designers Giorgio, 84, knows a thing or two about style.
However when it comes to his opinion on miniskirts I firmly believe his views couldn’t be more out of fashion.
While fashion used to be dictated by hard and fast rules, in 2018 the mantra of “what not to wear” no longer applies. The idea that you should banish a trend because of your body shape seems particularly archaic as the industry moves to be more diverse and inclusive with each passing season.
Fashion should be about having fun and personal expression and it’s feeling confident in whatever you wear that is key. Here are my top tips on how to style tricky hemlines at any shape or height.
MAXI
The old rule: The maxi dress is a wardrobe staple but it only suits taller women.
If you are… PETITE
Wear your maxi with heels. This will extend your legs and torso, adding some extra height.
Make friends with your tailor. When you are petite, having clothes skilfully altered is essential. It may
MIDI
The old rule: This 1940s-inspired silhouette has been a hit on the catwalk but should be avoided unless you have long legs.
If you are… ATHLETIC
The midi is a great way to add curves to an athletic physique. Make your waist the focal point by tucking in your top and adding a belt for a cinched-in look.
Opt for a skirt with added detail such as ruffles. The increased volume will give the illusion of curvier hips and bust, creating an hourglass silhouette. Red dress, £299, Hobbs (hobbs.co.uk)
If you are… CURVY
Try a high-waisted style. The higher you divide your body, the longer your lower body will look.
Doing this will lengthen your legs while keeping the focus on your waist.
Hug your curves with a fitted midi rather than trying to hide them in looser material. However make sure the hemline falls just be annoying to spend extra money but taking up the hem will ensure the fabric falls properly.
Try a maxi dress with a side slit or V-neck line. This will prevent you from looking swamped in fabric. Black dress, £160, Forever Unique at Littlewoods (littlewoods.co.uk)
You have… A LARGER BUST
The secret is finding the right cut. Look for empire-line dresses above your calf rather than below to add some natural length.
A slim-fit top and a narrow waist belt will highlight your waist and flatter your curves.
that are fitted under the bust line. This will elongate your torso, making you appear taller. ● Look for V-necks that add a hint of cleavage. This will draw the eye down your body, making it appear longer. ● If you’re wearing a maxi skirt, tuck in your top to highlight your waist. This will lengthen your legs no matter what height you are. Make sure the top is fitted to avoid looking swamped in fabric. Leopard-print dress, £43, Glamorous (glamorous.com)
You are… TALL
● It might seem easy to wear a maxi if height is on your side but to avoid being overwhelmed by billowing abric, draw it in with a lim belt. ● Look for dresses with a ide split to show off your ong legs. ● Remember that maxis come in many styles so try a halter-neck or bandeau top to show off your shoulders.
You are… PEAR SHAPED
● Balance out wider hips by keeping the focus on your upper torso. Pair maxi skirts with bandeau tops to draw attention to your shoulders, the width of which will balance out your hips. ● Try off-the-shoulder maxi dresses or designs that have embellishment or ruffles around the neckline.
u are… PETITE
● Wearing petite can be a midi tricky when as the you are ard calf length can make you look shorter. Create the illusion of length by wearing one colour. If it is a block colour midi dress or separates in the same shade, keep it matching. ● Add height with a heel and choose a shoe that matches your skin tone so legs will seem longer. ● Look for neater shapes such as a small A-line or a fitted pencil skirt to avoid being swamped by fabric.
u are… PEAR-SHAPED
● The midi trend is an absolute winner for pear shapes as it draws the eye away from the hips to the calves. ● Look for A-line skirts that show off your waist before skimming over the hips and finishing at calf length. ● Go wild with colour and print, the important thing is finding the right silhouette. Pink skirt, £39.50, Marks & Spencer (marksandspencer.co.uk)
MINI
The old rule: This short style should only be worn if you are petite and slim.
You are… PEAR-SHAPED
Like with the midi, an A-line silhouette offers the perfect shape for skimming over the hips.
Look for thicker fabrics that will offer more coverage and show off your curves. Opaque tights will give added support.
Pair with something that draws the eye up to lengthen your body.
You have… A LARGER BUST
Try a skater mini. The added volume around the bottom of the skirt will help to balance out your shoulders and bust line.
A skirt with a defined waist will enhance your hourglass figure. Keep your top half fitted to avoid adding bulk and covering your curves.
You are… ATHLETIC
Adding volume will give the illusion of fuller curves. Look for embellished or ruffled minis or asymmetric cuts.
Try a short skirt with patch-pocket detailing to add shape and create a curvier silhouette. Ruffled skirt, £150, Bimba Y Lola (bimbaylola.com)
You are… PETITE
The shorter the skirt, the longer your legs will look. Team your skirt with neutral heels or wedges to make your legs look longer. Avoid anything too voluminous as this may swamp your figure.