Top tips for a sensitive approach
DOES your skin feel dry, tight, sore or itchy? You are not alone. Sensitive skin is thought to affect more than 20 million people in the UK, a number that is rising annually. In fact, the latest figures estimate that by 2020 more than half of the population will have allergic or reactive skin.
Indeed, more and more often in our clinic we are seeing what the French have coined “chrono sensitivity” – temporary outbreaks of sensitive skin symptoms.
This can happen multiple times throughout the year and last from a few days to several weeks. Skin feels itchy and is prone to rashes and tiny pimples.
Skin sensitivity can happen at any age but tends to worsen as we age and the skin barrier naturally weakens. Our lifestyle can cause redness and irritation too.
Pollution, smoking, a bad diet and over-use of harsh products have made us all more susceptible.
Complex skincare routines have not helped either, as overloading the skin with multiple products increases the amount of potential irritants your skin is exposed to.
Thankfully there has been a recent surge in new products and treatments, designed specifically for sensitive and allergic skin.
Formulas are pared down meaning fewer ingredients to aggravate the complexion and strip the skin of its natural oils. And many contain skin-strengthening barrier-boosters such as plant stem cells and niacinamide. And many of them are anti-ageing too.
So if your skin is feeling fragile, follow our handy guide.
SIMPLE STEPS TO SAVE SKIN
A few easy changes can make such a big difference to sensitivity.
Go back to basics. This applies to both the number of products in your routine and their ingredients lists. Steer clear of products with high concentrations of powerful active ingredients such as retinoids and salicylic acid, as well as chemical sunscreens. Also avoid astringents such as alcohol and witch hazel.
Be aware that foaming cleansers, products containing particularly high concentrations of essential oils, harsh scrubs and exfoliators irritate the skin. Instead try a gentle cleanser and flannel. Use tepid water and don’t put your face under the shower.
Try before you buy. Research ingredients before purchasing and do patch tests before applying any new product all over your face. Ask at the beauty counter for a mini sample and try on your inner arm or neck every day for a week and note what happens. Great brands for sensitive skin include Eucerin, Aveeno, CeraVe, Cetaphil and SVR. Change your diet. Inflammatory foods such as sugar, alcohol and trans and saturated fats can lead to inflammation in the skin cells. This can manifest in a variety of ways, ranging from itching and redness to chronic conditions such as rosacea and eczema. Fill your diet with omega-3 rich foods such as salmon and tuna. Other skin-soothing foods include walnuts, Brussels sprouts, avocado, ginger and pomegranate.
Stop stressing. The same membrane that covers nerve endings in our brain is also found in our skin. That’s why we sometimes get flushing, blushing, itching and allergies when we’re stressed.
Protect against the elements. Walking in the cold, wind and rain should be kept to a minimum. And one of the easiest ways to protect your skin’s barrier from the elements is by choosing a mineralbased UVA/UVB sun protection which doesn’t irritate the skin like its chemical counterparts can.
SOOTHING FORMULAS
Look for hydrating formulas rich in plant stem cells and antioxidants. Go for light textures that do not clog pores and allow the skin to breathe.
Eucerin Ultra Sensitive Soothing Cleansing Lotion, £11.50 (eucerin. co.uk). The first and most important step is ensuring that skin is effectively cleansed without irritating or harming the already delicate skin barrier and this gentle cleansing lotion will do exactly that.
It contains SymSitive, an innovative new active ingredient especially developed to soothe hypersensitive skin.
Stem Cellutions Restorative Miracle Serum, £55 (harleystreetskincare.com). A concentrated anti-ageing skin rejuvenator from our own range, with peptides and antioxidants that work to rebuild your skin. It boosts cell turnover for a smoother, healthier and younger looking complexion.
SVR Sensifine Masque, £12 (lookfantastic.com). A new anti-flare-up treatment for sensitive and reactive skins. Its pared down formula won’t over-burden skin, Apply a thin layer and leave on overnight to allow the soothing active ingredients to soak into skin to calm irritation and redness.
Super Facialist Pure Sensitive Skin Recovery Day Cream, £9.99 (boots.com). This gentle moisturiser combines probiotic technology and skin-soothing naturals to hydrate.
Mary Kay Mineral Powder Foundation, £16.50 (marykay.co.uk). Mineral make-up is best for sensitive skin types so try this clinically tested range. The lightweight formula comes in a range of colours that won’t irritate but cover redness and signs of irritation.
AT THE CLINIC
The CBD Facial. One of the most talked-about cosmetic ingredients this year has been Cannabidiol (CBD) which is a substance found in the cannabis plant.
The use of quality, whole-plant extracted CBD can have hugely beneficial calming and protective effects on our skin. It is non-comedogenic so won’t block pores, is rich in antioxidants, especially vitamin E, has anti-inflammatory properties and contains essential fatty acids to help calm and soothe stressed and sensitive skin. Our new facial has been developed for sensitive skin.
To begin, three drops of CBD oil are administered under the tongue to relax and calm. The skin is then double-cleansed before it is massaged with CBD oil. The therapist concentrates on key pressure points to help restore a natural glow. A mask is applied for 15 minutes. Finally a light film of CBD cream is applied to seal and protect the skin. Costs £120, call 020 7436 4441.
LED light treatments are the latest devices to help improve the appearance of irritated skin. Infra red and sometimes blue light is beamed on to the skin for up to 10 minutes. The light can easily penetrate the dermis and helps boost circulation and instigate the release of chemical messengers called cytokines which help heal and soothe inflammation, and rejuvenate the skin. You can expect to pay from £60 to £120 per treatment.