A wildlife heaven in KwaZulu-Natal
BA flights to Durban will open up South Africa’s remote bushland interior, says
SOUTH Africa: We think of majestic Table Mountain. Nelson Mandela. Cape Town’s dramatic beaches. Wine regions. Coastal drives alongside crashing surf.
Most lovers of South Africa have ticked all of these boxes. What they may not have done, or quite possibly not even contemplated, is to discover the Zulu heartland of KwaZulu-Natal.
In Zulu this expansive wild bushland is called Heaven, an apt description of the wild, rolling mountains, swathed in eucalyptus trees introduced from Australia and ornamental African acacia trees, common to the savannah.
Mix that with a dramatic unspoilt coastline, home to prolific wildlife, and you’ve got a heady recipe for an ultimate African adventure.
The province’s capital Durban itself, sadly, is somewhat faded, yet not without spirit. It’s seen better days with the once grand colonial buildings, surrounded by wrought-iron verandahs, in need of some serious loving.
Squares lined with historic landmarks such as the neo-baroque City Hall built in 1910, with columns reaching to the heavens, crowned by a massive US Capitol-style dome depict a once prosperous society. Durban’s distinctive solid Cape Malay houses with thick walls and stable doors, alongside British-style churches, follow suit. Nearby is the Old Courthouse Museum, a plain, solid stone building where Mahatma Gandhi practised as a lawyer.
He was to stay in South Africa for more than 20 years. It’s not difficult to imagine him sheltering from the midday sun, resplendent in a threepiece tweed suit.
The city’s pavements are bustling with people selling their fresh produce and clothing. Nearby, Central Victoria Market has sky-high pyramids of bright spices and tobacco leaves, alongside more tourist-oriented stalls offering baskets, carved hippos, wooden bowls and colourful beaded jewellery.
In 1820 the British arrived in KwaZulu-Natal, establishing a trade port, but the Zulus were so self sufficient they didn’t need the work. Instead the British looked across to India for workers and recruited hundreds, luring them to Africa with five-year guaranteed contracts.
Sadly, for most, after the contract period had passed they couldn’t afford to return home. It wasn’t until 1994 that they were finally made African citizens, with many today having prominent positions in business and politics. Now it has the largest Indian population outside of India.
Capetonians have cottoned on to Durban’s natural attributes, descending on the city for the weekend to swim in the warm Indian Ocean.
There’s still an element of the black/white divide with obvious signs of the disparity still visible, particularly in the gated Zimbali Coastal Estate where villas are tucked away in dense planting. But the estate is also home to the award-winning Fairmont Zimbali hotel where we stayed. Overlooking the crashing surf, it boasts a vast pool, sublime service and some of the best beaches for swimming in Durban.
However, there’s no time to dip our toes in, as we’re up early heading north through sugar cane plantations, into Zulu territory.
Driven by the effervescent