Welcome to the retro food revival

From rice pudding to cornedne ed beef hash, sales of classic comfort foods soared during lockdown – but can n they ever be as nutritious as they are delicious? Elizabeth Archer finds outu ut

If you want to know what Brits turn to in a crisis, the answer, it appears, is custard. Sales of this childhood comfort food spiked by more than 300 per cent in lockdown and it wasn’t the only retro favourite to find itself back on the menu.

While there’s no doubt many traditional comfort foods are laden with fat, salt and sugar, nutritionist Paula Werrett from the Institute of Nutrition, says it doesn’t have to be that way. Simple tweaks and everything from rice pud to cottage pie can be given a healthy makeover.

RICE PUDDING

Sales of rice pudding have soared by 67 per cent at Waitrose in the pandemic, and it’s no surprise it is high up our list of comfort favourites. Surprisingly, however, it has some hidden health benefits.

“Rice pudding is high in calcium and protein. It is also a source of fibre as well as some micronutrients and minerals, so it’s better for us than many desserts,” says Paula. “But it’s still quite high in calories and sugar.”

● Smart swap: Make it yourself using brown rice to increase the amount of fibre and minerals such as magnesium. Low- fat dairy products will reduce the fat content, too.

CUSTARD

There are few things as comforting as a bowl of hot custard, which is why sales of the powder variety shot up by 336 per cent at Co- op in lockdown.

“Custard is a useful source of calcium and contains protein from the milk,” says Paula.

● Smart swap: Look for one that doesn’t contain any artificial colourings or preservatives. Or make your own and swap the double cream for single.

TINNED FRUIT

At the beginning of lockck down, panic buying led d to shelves being stripped of canned foods. And while this eventually settled down, tinned fruit such as pineapple and mandarin continued to be popular.

“Tinned fruit is a source of vitamin C, which is good in the winter months when we might need extra to boost immunity,” says Paula.

“It does have slightly lower vitamin C levels than fresh fruit as a result of the canning process, but you still get many of the same benefits.”

● Smart swap: Tinned fruit often comes in syrup, which is high in sugar, so opt for ones that are canned in their own juice instead.

PICKLED ONIONS

The Co- op says pickled onion sales increased by 166 per cent during lockdown.

“Pickled onions contain a lot of the nutrients found in fresh onions.

“This includes vitamin C, which is essential for a healthy immune system, folate to maintain energy levels and a phytonutrient called quercetin which has antiinflammatory properties,” propertie says Paula.

● Smart swap: Pickled onions contain quite a lot of salt, which can increase blood pressure. So if you’re eating them frequently, reduce salt elsewhere in your diet or choose a low- sodium version.

MACARONI CHEESE

Ready meal versions of this comforting comfort dish have been popular in recent re months, as people return re to their childhood favourites.

“Although it tends to be high in salt and fat, it’s also high in protein,” says Paula. “But be aware that shop- s bought varieties va often contain conta additives, which aren’t very good for us.”

● Smart swap: Use wholegrain pasta, which is higher in fibre, as well as magnesium. Replace a third of the pasta with vegetables such as cauliflower to boost fibre content, and add antioxidants. Use skimmed milk and low- fat cheddar to make it even healthier.

CORNED BEEF

Alongside tinned tuna, supermarkets saw a rise in popularity for tinned meat like corned beef. “Gram for gram, there’s not as much protein in corned beef as meats such as chicken but it’s still a good source,” says Paula. “The main thing is it’s very high in sodium and, like beef generally, it’s high in saturated fat.

“It also contains additives such as sodium nitrate which can damage blood vessels, increasing our risk of heart disease.” ● Smart swap:

Eat in small quantities occasionally, or better still, opt for beef slices. These typically contain less salt and sodium nitrate.

TINNED TUNA

Tuna mayo sandwiches and tuna pasta bakes are seeing a boom, as shoppers buy more tinned fish.

“Nutritionally, tinned tuna is similar to fresh tuna and is actually lower in calories,” says Paula. Tuna is a good source of omega 3 fatty acids, which help lower blood pressure, and vitamin D to keep bones healthy.

Smart swap: Tuna canned in brine will contain excess salt, while tuna canned in oil is typically stored in poor- quality sunflower oil. Choose a brand that is tinned in spring water and also opt for smaller varieties of tuna such as skipjack, as they contain less mercury.

INSTANT MASH

“Instant mash is very convenient and contains vitamin C and fibre, but slightly less than homemade mash,” says Paula.

“It also contains less oil than other potato products such as oven chips.”

● Smart swap: To boost your vitamin C and fibre intake, heat a baking potato in the microwave for seven minutes after pricking it with a fork. Scoop out the insides with a spoon and mash with a splash of milk before putting it back in the skin. Bake the skins in the oven for a few minutes so they go crispy.

It can remind us of calmer times or of the people who looked after us

COTTAGE PIE

Online searches for recipes for this comforting dinner increased in recent months.

“There are a lot of minerals in cottage pie from the beef and the vegetables. Beef is a good source of protein, while both carrots and peas are a source of vitamin A,” says Paula.

● Smart swap: Try a sweet potato topping to provide vitamin A. Sweet potato releases energy more slowly than white potato, which is better for blood sugar control.