The grape that came back from the dead

THE CARMéNèRE grape has a curious history. Its name originates from the French word for crimson (carmin) referring to the brilliant crimson colour of its autumn foliage. It was originally planted in the Médoc region of Bordeaux until the phylloxera pest (which feeds on the roots and leaves of vines) wreaked havoc across Europe in 1867. Carménère was particularly vulnerable, and the grape was thought to be extinct.

In fact, it was thriving on the other side of the world. Chilean winemakers had imported cuttings from Bordeaux, including carménère which had been mistaken for merlot. Chile was (and still is) isolated from phylloxera and its climate with long dry summers suits the grape far better than its original home. Over the course of the 20th Century, carménère was collected and processed together with merlot grapes giving Chilean merlot a unique and distinctive flavour.

Then, in 1994, DNA testing revealed many of the country’s supposed merlot vines were in fact carménère. Finally, in 1998, Chile officially recognised it as a distinct variety.What a story and the wine’s not bad either!

Carménère has a beautiful deep ruby colour and is characterised by distinctive savoury, slightly earthy aromas and flavours of green peppers and red fruit berries.The taste is full-bodied. But be warned,ABVs can be on the high side. It’s also a fantastic food wine, its high acidity, mild tannins and savoury flavours making a perfect match for roast pork, lamb and duck. So try swapping your merlot for carménère and check it out. It’s the grape that came back from the dead… for which we should all give thanks.