The acid test

Acids are the hottest ingredients in skincare right now, promising to fight acne, fade age spots and freshen up the complexion.

They work by dissolving the build-up of dead skin cells that block pores and cling to skin, making it look dull.

They also maintain healthy skin by boosting cell renewal, as well as maximising the benefits of other skincare products – and there are plenty to choose from.

Indeed the beauty industry has picked up on our appetite for all things acid.

Exciting new products are launched regularly, often in powerful concentrations once solely confined to dermatology clinics. But with so many to choose from, where should you begin?

TYPES OF ACIDS

AHAs Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are great for normal/ combination skin. Glycolic acid, derived from sugarcane, is probably the best known.

A natural exfoliant, it’s good for treating pigmentation and penetrates the skin more effectively than other acids.

Lactic acid, also derived from sugar, has the added benefit of hydrating dry skin.

Derived from fruit, malic acid is gentle, and has less potential to irritate. It smoothes skin, tighten pores and minimises the appearance of pigmentation.

BHAs Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) are good for oily and acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid, the most common, helps to keep blackheads and breakouts in check without irritating.

PHAs Poly-hydroxy acids (PHAs) are perfect for sensitive skin because they are the most gentle acids of all. They don’t strip the skin, are brightening and great for restoring radiance.

Gluconolactone is the most common PHA, in addition to galactose and lactobionic acid.

The newbies Azelaic acid is becoming more popular. Derived from grain, it gently brightens skin and is great for improving pigmentation disorders, breakouts and uneven texture.

Elsewhere, tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, and is recognised for its ability to brighten the complexion and improve the appearance of discolouration.

Do your research to work out which one will work best with your skin type, and ensure you only use one acid-based product at a time.

Do a patch test before use, popping some product on the back of your hand or inner arm. In 24 to 48 hours, if there is no reaction, you’re good to go.

Incorporate your chosen product into your routine slowly – once a week at first – to monitor how your skin reacts.

AHAs increase your skin’s sensitivity, so use a good SPF daily.

Acids can be drying, so replenish skin with a hydrating mask to restore moisture.

Can you layer acids?

Our advice is that it’s wise not to bother. Overcomplicating your skincare routine is the quickest route to a damaged skin barrier, which can exacerbate acne and other inflammatory skin conditions. The safest bet when using acid is to find one that works for you, and stick with it.

How do I use an acid?

Choose the correct product for your skin type. Then follow the instructions carefully.

Most acid solutions are simply applied after cleansing. Some need to be removed in 10 minutes, others are designed to work overnight. Most can be used on the backs of the hands, neck and decolletage as well as face.

What does an acid product feel like?

Initially you may experience mild irritation or tingling. This is normal and should pass in around a minute.

However if your skin begins to burn or itch intensely, wash it off.

Can they damage your skin?

A telltale sign you’re overdoing acids is very dry skin with a tight appearance. You may also experience redness and flaking around the nose and mouth.

While you may experience some temporary redness after you apply an acid, this should fade in minutes. For best results, limit use to no more than three times a week and avoid the highest concentrations.

I’ve damaged my skin – what now?

Stop using acids altogether to give your skin barrier a chance to recover. Switch to a gentle cleanser and moisturise twice a day.

Use a hydrating mask a couple of times a week and a broad-spectrum SPF30 daily. You should see a skin expert if the problem persists.

Can I mix acids with other skincare?

Active skincare ingredients such as retinol and high strength vitamin C, as well as grainy scrubs, can cause irritation if they are used alongside acids.

For safety’s sake, it’s always best to check with a skincare expert if you are unsure.