Super Israel’s heaven sent
off in the centre of Jerusalem, heading towards Mea She’arim, which is where the ultraOrthodox Jewish community live, mainly Hasidic.
This is the community that still dresses in a style dating from the 18th century (our guide pointed out that different types of headwear, breeches and so on indicated the European country of origin of an individual’s family) and eschews modern life, refusing such elements as televisions.
It’s a small network of streets and while you are allowed in, it is an must to dress and behave modestly, which for women includes wearing long-ish skirts. And don’t gawp.
The city centre is very attractive. It is all built in the same limestone colour (to this day no other colour or stone is allowed in the building of it) and you can stroll down Ben Yehuda Street and Jaffa Street before visiting Machane Yehuda, a local two block market that is a paradise for foodies (although beware
– some market stalls, seeing tourists, overcharge).
But it is the Old City that has been exuding fascination for thousands of years. In it, Jews, Christians and Muslims appear to co-exist relatively equably, although it is a pragmatic decision rather than one joyfully embraced by everyone concerned.
For what it is worth, I was not aware of any tension between the different communities and in the Old City, the three are piled up on top of each other. When I was standing in a church, I heard the call to prayer from a mosque.
We were in Jerusalem for two days, which is nothing like enough to see it all.
We did visit the Western Wall, known to some as the Wailing Wall, but were only able to admire the Dome of the Rock, housed in Haram al-Sharif (the “noblest sanctuary” to Muslims – this place really does have
The city centre is attractive: built in same limestone colour
some of the holiest spots for all three of the great monotheistic religions) from afar. And the archaeologist excavations of the City of David are for another time.
Fortunately my support bubble is a keen archaeologist who has been on a dig in Israel, which he is eager to repeat.
Would I go again? Like a shot.