CHICKEN BIRYANI

A biryani is ideal for a celebration. We like to cut the chicken into small pieces – breasts into four, thighs in half. Drumsticks can be left whole.

Serves 4

1kg (2lb 4oz) chicken pieces, bone in, but skinned Salt and freshly ground black pepper Juice of ½ a lemon 4 garlic cloves, crushed 30g (1oz) fresh ginger, grated 1tsp cardamom pods, seeds only 1tsp fennel seeds 1tsp cumin seeds 2cm (¾in) cinnamon stick ½tsp chilli powder or cayenne pepper ½tsp turmeric 200ml (7fl oz) yoghurt

For the rice

500g (1lb 2oz) basmati rice 2 mace blades (from supermarkets) 1tsp green cardamom pods 3cm (1¼in) cinnamon stick 4 cloves ½tsp black peppercorns 3 bay leaves

For layering the biryani

4tbsp vegetable oil 2 onions, finely sliced 2-4 green chillies, finely sliced A small bunch of coriander, chopped A pinch of saffron A pinch each salt and sugar 50ml (2fl oz) milk 500ml (18fl oz) chicken stock 25g (1oz) butter, melted, or ghee

To serve

A little chopped coriander and mint 3 eggs, hard-boiled and quartered 2tbsp flaked almonds, toasted Put the chicken in a bowl and season. Mix the lemon juice, garlic and ginger together. Toast the whole spices in a pan until aromatic, then remove from the heat and cool. Grind to a powder, then mix with the chilli powder or cayenne pepper and the turmeric. Add to the lemon juice mixture, then stir in the yoghurt. Rub into the meat, cover and chill for a few hours or overnight.

Wash the rice in a sieve until the water runs clean, then soak in fresh cold water for 15 minutes. Put the mace, cardamom pods, cinnamon stick, cloves, peppercorns and bay leaves in a fabric spice bag (available online), and place it in a pan. Pour plenty of just-boiled water into the pan and bring back to the boil. Add the rice and season with salt. Simmer for 5 minutes, then drain (removing the bag) and rinse under cold water.

To layer the biryani, heat 3tbsp of the oil in a pan and fry the onions until softened. Turn up the heat and fry, stirring, until browned and crisp. Drain the onions on kitchen paper, then add half to the rice. Set the rest aside. Add the chillies and coriander to the rice.

Grind the saffron with the salt and sugar, then put it in a pan with the milk. Warm the milk gently, remove from the heat and leave to infuse for half an hour. Heat the remaining oil in a flameproof casserole. Add the chicken and fry until lightly browned. Add the stock and bring to the boil. Simmer for 25 minutes until the chicken is almost cooked and most of the stock has been absorbed, then add the rice mixture and pour the milk over.

Make holes in the biryani with the handle of a wooden spoon and pour the melted butter or ghee into them. Place a folded tea towel over the dish, put the lid on top and place over a low heat to steam for about 20 minutes until the rice is cooked. Remove from the heat and leave, covered, for 10 minutes. Spoon on to a platter and garnish with the herbs, eggs, reserved onions and the almonds.