BEHIND THE LABEL...

2015 Réserve de la Saurine Rosé, Vin de France, £7, M&S. Vin de France is the designation that has replaced the Vin de Table category. They note a grape variety and vintage on the label, but not a region. Even the lowliest level of wines, however, can have a few stars, like this strawberry-scented rosé.