FILLED YORKSHIRE PUDDINGS

Well-risen Yorkshires, tender meat, crispy crackling and a tart apple sauce – this is a Sunday roast in one neat package. Makes 24

For the Yorkshire puddings

340g (11¾oz) plain flour Fine sea salt and black pepper 6 medium eggs, at room temperature 500ml (18fl oz) whole milk About 100ml (3½fl oz) sparkling mineral water, chilled 100ml (3½fl oz) sunflower oil 2 x 12-hole nonstick muffin trays

For the crackling

100g (3½oz) piece pork skin, trimmed from the joint (see below) or buy a piece from your butcher Sea salt flakes, for sprinkling A good pinch of dried herbes de Provence (from supermarkets)

For the pork filling

500g (1lb 2oz) pork joint, skin trimmed and set aside for crackling, if using (see above) 2tbsp sunflower oil 1 medium red onion, peeled and diced 1 celery stick, diced 1 large carrot, peeled and diced 1 medium dessert apple, peeled and diced 430ml (15fl oz) medium sweet cider ½ a pork stock cube 1 bay leaf 1tsp chopped fresh sage or ½tsp dried sage 1tbsp cornflour Wholegrain mustard and white pepper, to taste

For the apple sauce

2 medium cooking apples, peeled, cored and chopped into chunks 3tbsp water 10g (¼oz) unsalted butter 1-2tsp caster sugar, to taste A few drops of lemon juice, to taste First make the pudding batter. Sift the flour and ½tsp salt into a bowl, add some pepper and make a well in the centre. Break in one egg and whisk, using a hand wire whisk, so it is broken up and a little flour is mixed in. Repeat with the other eggs, one at a time. Slowly whisk in the milk, drawing in the flour to make a smooth batter. Whisk in half of the sparkling water. Transfer the batter to a jug, cover and chill for 30 minutes or until ready to bake.

To prepare the crackling, score the surface of the pork skin on the skin side and sprinkle with salt and herbs. Leave uncovered for 20 minutes. Heat the oven to 220°C/ fan 200°C/gas 7 and put a roasting tin into the bottom of the oven to heat up. Wipe the salt and herbs off the pork skin and pat with kitchen paper. Put the rind (skin-side uppermost) on a baking tray lined with baking paper and place a second baking tray on top. Set a heavy casserole dish on top to keep the crackling flat and pour cold water into it to 6cm (2½in) deep. Put the whole contraption into the oven. Pour cold water into the roasting tin in the bottom of the oven to create steam, then close the oven door quickly. Bake the crackling for 30 minutes until crisp.

Meanwhile, make the pork filling. Cut the meat across into 3 pieces. Heat the oil in a frying pan and brown the meat on all sides. Transfer to a plate. Add the onion, celery and carrot to the pan and cook over a low heat, stirring, for 8 minutes. Stir in the apple along with 400ml (14fl oz) of the cider and the ½ stock cube, bay leaf and sage. Bring to the boil, stirring.

Return the meat and any juices to the pan. Cover and simmer, removing the lid occasionally to turn the meat, for 15 minutes until the pork is cooked through. Lift out on to a chopping board. Mix the cornflour with the remaining cider in a bowl, then add this to the vegetables in the pan. Bring to the boil, stirring, and add mustard and pepper to taste. Cut the meat into 5mm (¼in) slices, then cut the slices across in half. Return to the pan, cover and keep warm. When the crackling comes out of the oven, leave it to cool and then chop it into shards. Remove the roasting tin from the bottom of the oven but leave the oven on.

Brush the holes of the muffin trays with oil and place in the